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I think this hinge mount looks pretty strong, and you can flip the “top” side to print without overhangs:
I tried merging the allted one with this, using just the STL files in sketchup, but my CAD foo is not strong. I broke the upper mount once (and reprinted in PETG) but I haven’t broken the bottom part yet.
I really want to love PETG, but it sometimes just really really screws up. I think the root of the problem is that the filament prefers to stick to the nozzle (or the molten plastic) more than the solid plastic, so if there is any extra extrusion (or overhang material) it will prefer to collect in a blob on the nozzle, and deposit itself as a big bump later on. PLA doesn’t seem to do that, it just leaves a little more plastic with the stuff it extruded. The blobs cause a real problem later on, when the nozzle bumps into a 5mm blob of hard plastic… You should see some of the epic failures I’ve had with this stuff. When it fails, it fails HARD.
I’ve been printing PETG at 260C with no cooling, and the bed has to be absolutely perfectly level. I went so far as to level while printing the first layer on a big print to get it right. I’ve never had to be that precise with PLA. For something that’s flat, or at least really solid, without any small parts, and without any overhangs, and with a lot of infill, PETG has created some great prints, but I can’t print a bunch of the stuff that has been easy on PLA. Definitely an advanced filament, IMO. I don’t have a ton of experience with ABS, but maybe it would be easier coming from ABS. I could probably print all the parts but the better middle Z in PETG. Probably. Things like the cable chain would have had me pulling my hair out, I’m sure.
I like that it is stronger than PLA. I like that it has a higher glass temperature than PLA. I like that it only needs a 60C bed vs. ABS, and it sticks well to blue tape.
I’m pretty sure PETG isn’t really that standard either, because the hatchbox stuff I’ve been printing has a temp range of 240-260, and the inland stuff is 235-255, and I’ve seen some expensive PETG with even lower temperature suggestions.
I have a MK10 extruder, which I upgraded to the micro swiss all metal. I wonder if I shouldn’t have bought the e3 instead.
BTW, I just got my two mystery rolls from makergeeks, and I got “bomber jacket brown” (which looks like a really dark brown) and “HD Glow Glass” (which is see through/glow in the dark, not very bright glow in the dark). But for $33, they will definitely make some functional parts. I might make a glow in the dark printer pretty as my next project.