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Thanks guys, I started on it today. I have a solid outline and started to fix some things on the assembly page, which will get a name change when it is all done.
So I am trying to figure out why this all has switched lately. This machine is about a year and a half old. The first 9 month or so I didn’t really have any instructions, just software edits and such. I can only assume the lack of clear instructions kept away the new comers an inexperienced. Maybe now I am just starting to get enough info to where the new to the reprap world people are starting to jump in and build an MPCNC. I would guess that is why these information holes are popping up, since nothing has been deleted.
I am finally getting enough information to get people confident enough to try it! So bear with me I am taking notes and slowly filling in the blanks.
I am getting started on Jake’s post and have added a getting started section and need to write up a “size” guide, pros and cons sort of thing. Short but that will save me from answering questions about it several times a day.
Bill, I will clarify some software posts and add a few posts, in order, of the first few steps that should be taken to test the functionality. Then next I will add a “use” section. This is going to take a lot of time but it should help all answer most everything you have brought up. Starting with basics for different tools, router, pen, laser, knife….When there is enough info I will split it up again by tool and material (if I feel I need to get this in depth). That last part just might be a page for each tool with settings and a link. example, once There is a clear wood routing/milling tutorial with a flat end mill to use a different material it is just a feeds and speed thing, nothing else changes. I will probably just start with links to videos that explain it all in depth and only expand it myself If I get asked about it.
So now to clarify everything you have asked about is here just not organized well, my note sheet is filling up. Thank you for helping me find the holes.
-The repetier host page is not 3d printing specific. It is how to set the control software, nothing to actually do with printing. I kept all the print specific stuff on the extruder page (but am going to separate that as well). (PS, that page was the first page I ever made that was the only instructions available for a long time, shows you how far this project has come in the last 9 months or so.)
-I don’t really make a spoil board. As shown I leave a part that is removable but just screw and clap directly to it. No fancy systems. I will make this part of the getting started milling section. I think a lot of people get ahead of themselves in this department and spend too much time chasing perfection. For beginners making some cuts and getting it dirty will teach a lot of the basics. trying to get something to 4 decimal place accuracy is a waste of time. wood expands and contracts, bows and warps with humidity, a lot. The pursuit of extreme accuracy is not the game of woodworkers (you will never see one talking in 32nds, 16ths is pretty crazy for most wood jobs). That is a good idea for another page…tolerances/accuracy/precision, in relation to materials.
-The test file you are asking about is a word (the logo and webaddress), that way you can tell if it is inverted. I will add the expected size, although that tutorial explains how to check for size and how to scale your dxf’s.