- joeskiltonParticipantAugust 11, 2015 at 5:06 pmPost count: 24
Anyone here from Australia? I’ve built a MP CNC using 25mm Conduit but the conduit was really hard to come by in AUS (seems we don’t use it) and it’s really badly manufactured which is causing pretty bad inaccuracy in my X and Y axis. I’m looking for other options but there’s not much available. I can get Electrical suppliers to order in the conduit but I’m afraid I’ll probably just get the same crap, and I can’t look at it before purchase to know. Already wasted heaps of money on this.
Another user suggested stainless railing but I’ve called all the local boating shops and they don’t stock anything of the sort.
Looks like it would suit but I don’t like the chances of them shipping it from China without it being bent?
Any suggestions appreciated.kawobeiParticipantAugust 14, 2015 at 4:49 amPost count: 19
Wholesaler was fairly rough with the pipe when I picked mine up, so I might have similar problems. Be good to know what option you pick as I’m in Aus as well.kawobeiParticipantAugust 15, 2015 at 2:29 amPost count: 19
I just rolled my pipe on some MDF woof and there is almost 1mm of difference.
2 lengths of 4 meter pipe. One a mate picked up which was thrown around and the other I picked up and cut onsite down to manageable lengths.
Im thinking I will have to go back and get another length that hasnt been tossed around.joeskiltonParticipantAugust 15, 2015 at 4:11 amPost count: 24
Haven’t gone with an option yet, I called about stainless and it’s order in only too which means I can’t inspect it without laying money down first. Seems kinda dumb to trust that it hasn’t been bent in transit.
I did check my conduit out the back on the cement before I cut it down and bought it and it’s pretty true, nowhere close to 1mm. There were bad sections that were bent but I just cut around them. You’re lucky it’s in stock where you are, I’m on the Sunshine Coast and I’ve already bought the only two lengths I could find in stock :). I think the main issue I’m seeing is that my printed parts aren’t accurate and were way too tight so I had to use the joined part of the conduit to run on, clearly they weld the joins on the conduit I have and grind them, they are really bad.
I’ve chosen to get someone with a nice rostock to reprint my Z parts so I can avoid the join, I have one test inner middle part and it fits really nice, I should have the rest on Monday. I’ll let you know if I have any more progress with better tube as I’m still searching.
There does seem to be 25mm OD stainless and iron exhaust pipe in stock, I am yet to inspect a length to see if it’s suitable.kawobeiParticipantAugust 16, 2015 at 3:10 pmPost count: 19
I had some orange PLA I was using up for the feet and printed 3 in Orange then ran out and printed one in freshly opened purple and the orange ones are all way to small and break trying to get pipe in, purple only need a little convincing and its fine. So different plastics makes a difference.vicious1KeymasterAugust 16, 2015 at 3:14 pmPost count: 2660
PLA absorbs moisture and get brittle. Sounds like yours might have been old or you live in a humid place. I keep mine in zip lock bags if they aren’t in use, I’m near the coast.joeskiltonParticipantAugust 16, 2015 at 3:44 pmPost count: 24
I’ve tried new and old PLA with little difference, the dimensions are always wrong. I put it down to the printer I used having zip-tied linear bearings (that can’t be good). It’s humid here, sub-tropical. I use one of those big moisture absorbers(buy them at woolies) to keep the PLA OK.
The strange part for me is if I print a calibration cube it’s perfect, but holes are just way off. I’ve tried different combinations of slicers and settings with no luck. Once again, Zip tied linear bearings? Printrbot shouldn’t have sold this kit – it’s more frustrating than it is enjoyable.vicious1KeymasterAugust 16, 2015 at 3:51 pmPost count: 2660
Have you done the 100mm extrude test? Heat up the extruder, mark 100mm on the filament from the top of the extruder, manually extrude 100mm. Does it go exactly 100mm? That is really the only setting that can be off. If it does more than 100 you tend to get small holes, less than 100 you can get weak parts. All the other setting had better be exact from the factory, which would give you a perfect cube.
Trust me all printers need fidgeting with. I even got in a fight with my CNC while it was printing this morning. Was just acting weird, printing perfect again, and I didn’t do or change anything.joeskiltonParticipantAugust 16, 2015 at 3:57 pmPost count: 24
Yep sure have, steps per mm were off on all axis, everything checks out now but it still prints holes undersized. I have read on forums ppl having the same problem and they solve it just by oversizing their holes, clearly I’m not up for that.
It’s OK, I’ve got a guy with a Rostock reprinting for me, costly but oh well.vicious1KeymasterAugust 16, 2015 at 4:08 pmPost count: 2660
What size holes are you getting mine print right about 8mm, depending on the part some are a bit oval 7.9 8.1. nature of the printer. I have them in CAD at 8.1kawobeiParticipantAugust 16, 2015 at 4:17 pmPost count: 19
Id offer to print for you but my Z axis makes bad looking parts that I wouldn’t like to see in public. 🙂benmyersParticipantAugust 19, 2015 at 5:47 pmPost count: 1
Im trying to find 25mm OD pipe or tube in Australia and all I can find is 25.4mm OD. You can force this on but it is very hard to move. I have printed the parts in ABS.
What pipe/tube are you using in Australia.
BenAsho777ParticipantAugust 25, 2015 at 12:13 amPost count: 59
I’m thinking of going with the WMI-SSCON25, as I have been informed that the OD is 25.00mm.
There are a couple of places that sell it but I’m going through Turks as I have an account with them.
But you can find it here at REXEL http://www.rexel.com.au/products/20MM-SS-CONDUIT-316-X3-MTRS_WMI-SSCON20_341815.html
Yes it is expensive that is the price us Aussie pay!
Greg.BrentenParticipantAugust 27, 2015 at 8:14 amPost count: 6
Is it ok to use aluminium pipes? OD 25mm and ID 23mm.
ThanksAsho777ParticipantAugust 27, 2015 at 2:02 pmPost count: 59
Hi Brenten, that would mean your tube wall is only 1mm.
I was concerned about my 1.6mm wall for a stainless tube rail.
For better rigidity the thicker the wall the better, but the material density will also come into affect!
So my thought, as I have not used it, is that Aluminium with only a 1mm wall maybe fine for 3D printer but nothing else.
Greg.castrol69ParticipantSeptember 2, 2015 at 5:50 amPost count: 6
Hi I was considering using either carbon fiber or titanium tube shipped from china as I haven’t found anything locally(Australia) that would match the OD required, what are peoples thoughts on rigidity etc?
Next question is someone working on the 3d printed parts to work with 26.9mm OD pipes as these are very accessible here in Australia(and I’d rather not spend so much money on the alternative)
Jamievicious1KeymasterSeptember 2, 2015 at 6:37 amPost count: 2660
I have sold a lot of kits to Australia, there must be something that works. I really want to find something that works for you guys, other than building and maintaining a 3rd version.
Might be able to get a different size bearing that would work. If you point me to an inexpensive bearing supplier in Australia I can see If I can find a drop in replacement. This could be a great option, or really expensive.
Carbon fiber won’t work, I’m sure it would de-laminate or just wear out to fast. Titanium would be awesome!
How much does it cost to get these options shipped to you? I can send conduit, but it is a lot of work right now and shipping will be high. I checked shipping to the UK last weekend and it was $67, not including my time and materials. If I go get a metal chop saw I can get that time way down. I’m thinking I could get it there for about $80-$85. I wouldn’t really be making anything on that but it is an option.
Check for extruded aluminum sources, 25mm is common even here. You’ll want thick walled.
Any other Ideas?castrol69ParticipantSeptember 2, 2015 at 2:43 pmPost count: 6
That’s a good idea, so the theory for the bearing would be to swap the OD from 22 down to 21 which should allow me to use the 26.9mmOD pipe.
Does the bottom bearing adjust the tension against the pipe?
It looks like titanium 2 @ 25mm x 3mm x 500mm is AU $120.70 delivered.
I actually work at a hardware shop and didn’t even think to look at our aluminium, will check it out today. haha
Won’t the aluminium flex too much though?Asho777ParticipantSeptember 2, 2015 at 3:13 pmPost count: 59
I have a supplier just around the corner from me, here in Sydney.
They have Stainless Steel at 25.00mm OD x 1.6mm wall x 3 meter lengths. I have not yet purchase this but I will be going over to their yard next week to investigate and measure, this stainless steel tube, I think should be fine. They have also offered to cut too any lengths that I require, the pricing per 3M length would be around the $100AUD mark, but this I can confirm at a later date.
If you are here in Australia and your are interested in this tube, or any other that I may find, just hit me up in this thread and I will see what we can do!
I’m trying not to deviate from the 25.00mm OD as this creates issues for Vicious1. If there are any more then the current two sized prints on parts, people are going to start to print the wrong parts, and this is bad for everyone!
Greg.vicious1KeymasterSeptember 2, 2015 at 3:22 pmPost count: 2660
Aluminum Tube should be fine with enough wall thickness.
That is part of the problem there are videos out there of people’s machines not working and fitting too tight or loose and it is because they accidentally mixed standard and international parts, bad press…, and any add on I make I need to make it several times, when other people make an add on they usually only make it for their version. Fragmented design is not a good trend.
The prices you guys are seeing seem high. Am I right in assuming my prices even with high shipping will be a better option?
I am racking my brain trying to come up with a solution to fit all tubes within a 5-10mm range, and keep accuracy and square. In a few weeks I should have time to really dedicate to this.
Definitely not ignoring you guys, I am always trying new things. A universal Version 2 needs to happen.Asho777ParticipantSeptember 2, 2015 at 4:18 pmPost count: 59
I have not yet priced the Galvanized Conduit, because the closes I can get on paper is 20mm nominal bore at 2.3mm wall, so the OD is approx 26.9mm (too big). So I priced SS as we can get this 25.00mm OD.
So your pricing maybe cheaper then the SS, but I think it will not be cheaper then the Gal conduit, but it is the correct size!
But once I have a chance to check out the other options, like :- Electro-Galvanised Heavy Duty Conduit and Hot DIP Galvanised Very Heavy Duty Conduit, I will have a better idea.
Greg.veng1ParticipantSeptember 12, 2015 at 10:34 amPost count: 2
@vicious What CAD system was this designed in?
Have you considered making this design in OpenSCAD and fully parametric? Nophead did this with his Mendle90 and by changing a few initial parameters, it will scale everything so there is only one design.vicious1KeymasterSeptember 12, 2015 at 11:37 amPost count: 2660
As it is this is very complicated to get the geometry right. I have zero experience with openscad and from what I know about it would take a tremendous effort to do this. I am extremely fluent in solidworks I am confident I can just make a universal design that everyone can benefit from. Openscad would lead to an extremely fragmented build (think android OS). Any one who made an upgrade or add on would also need to be designed in this manner or it wouldn’t work with anyone else builds but there own. Since this keeps coming up, I understand everyone thinks openscad is the best option but I do not. If I can get a universal build to work with a range of sizes say + or minus 5mm diameter the parts could then be printed or molded, with molded parts being even more rigid and longer lasting and add ons only needing to be designed once. Look through thingiverse and you will see several add ons only made for 1 build size and not both, that’s a lose lose to me.
I hope to put serious effort into a new version in a few weeks. My main goal is one build for a wider range of rail sizes and make it compatible with the hardware people already own. So if people with version 1 want to make version 2 hopefully they will not need to buy anything but some more filament.
I hope this makes sense and doesn’t seem rude.veng1ParticipantSeptember 12, 2015 at 12:28 pmPost count: 2
This makes some sense and doesn’t seem rude.
I use Alibre/Geomagic which is very similar in many ways to Solidworks. Unfortunately, it won’t edit the stl files that you have supplied. I’d like to add nut traps in a few spots for the nuts I want to use but I understand why you don’t do that for a universal design. Openscad would allow that to be done as it is only math, equations and functions. It is arguably more universal than most other CAD systems.
Alibre does allow me to add nut traps to the generic.x_t tool_holder files, so if you could publish the parasolid files it would be almost as good. That was the only file I saw with .x_t files.lasermanParticipantSeptember 27, 2015 at 7:46 pmPost count: 13
I’m in NSW Australia, and we are a metalshop, I’ll check out what is available as far as 25mm OD tube goes, wha would be the ideal material/wall thickness? We have facilities to cut to size etc. and I’d be happy to pass it on to Aussies at cost.
BTW, what approximately in Australia is an all up cost for a final unit by the time it is all assembled, just for CNC work? I want to cut 3mm thick styrene sheets, ideally 1370×760 sheet size.lasermanParticipantSeptember 29, 2015 at 3:48 pmPost count: 13
Okay, I can get 3mm thick 25mm OD alloy tube for about $70 for a 6.5m length. Would that be suitable?vicious1KeymasterSeptember 29, 2015 at 5:10 pmPost count: 2660
Should work just fine. The z-nut holders my need to be shaved down a bit but will still work.lasermanParticipantSeptember 29, 2015 at 5:19 pmPost count: 13
Well, if anyone wants any, just let me know and I will pass it on at cost.gazobParticipantOctober 18, 2015 at 3:13 pmPost count: 8
Laserman can’t see an option to PM you, do you have any idea price on sending 2 cut lengths to Melbourne. This would be for 2 machines, first would be 3*1200 + 3*750 + 2×300 (leaving 50mm for cuts, if not enough make the 1200’s progressively smaller). The second is 750 x 3 + 355.6 x 2 + 1170 * 3 (leaving 28.8 for cuts if more is needed make the 1170’s progressively smaller). Postage would be to 3021. Havent completely decided on lengths, and am not sure we dont want to both stretch into the 3rd tube but lengths are pretty close. You can either reply here or email garry(dot)stone(at)vu(dot)edu(dot)au
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