- BarryParticipantMarch 30, 2016 at 1:40 pmPost count: 331
Is there a router mount that doesn’t break when you look at it wrong? I just broke the third router mount before I’ve even got the thing to work! They keep breaking at the screw holes! I’m printing it out in pet-g with 60% infill, which is pretty much solid on my printer. This last one took 9 hours to print! I’ve tried using https://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088910 and https://www.thingiverse.com/download:1949041 . They’ve both broken when I try to mount the router.BarryParticipantMarch 30, 2016 at 4:15 pmPost count: 331
HA!! J-B Kwik to the rescue!
Used a rotozip bit, so it’s too big, but it works!!BarryParticipantMarch 31, 2016 at 5:55 pmPost count: 331
The v5 from the links above, but there’s a crap ton of flex to it. The universal is a cool idea, but not very good with a router. Probably works great with print heads and lasers though, no side loads. Going to find one that bolts directly to the tubes, should be stiffer.
Dave GunParticipantMarch 31, 2016 at 6:05 pmPost count: 92
- This reply was modified 6 months, 3 weeks ago by Barry.
I was wondering about the universal mount. My thought is I want to keep the router as close and rigid to the Z conduits as possible. I see in your other post you have a head for a vacuum, This may also add I bit more stress to your mount.
DaveJasonParticipantMarch 31, 2016 at 7:40 pmPost count: 330
There is one or 2 mounts the connect directly to the tubes. I think I may try one of those right off the bat then. I printed the universal mount but I will not be into printing or laser with this for quite a while.BarryParticipantApril 1, 2016 at 3:42 amPost count: 331
The vac head is what I just milled out! I’m printing Ryan’s 660 mount right now. Will use the clamp I have now for the vac head, pretty sure it will fit. I’m also pretty sure some of the extra torque on the head was the bit I was using. Roto-zip bits aren’t really made for wood! I can’t really bring the gantry down much more, if I do the z nuts fall out, and holy crap that’s a pain to put back without taking everything apart!Dave GunParticipantApril 1, 2016 at 3:55 pmPost count: 92
I had the lower Z nut and spring fall out last night. It’s very hard to get it back in with a tool mounted. While I was trying to balance the nut and spring on the tip of my finger, I just happened to see one of those telescoping magnetic pick up tools hanging on a peg board within arms reach. I put the nut and spring on the magnet and without much problem, I got it back in and thread started.BarryParticipantApril 11, 2016 at 1:21 pmPost count: 331
Aaaand that’s mount #5 I’ve broken now….BarryParticipantApril 12, 2016 at 8:22 amPost count: 331
Had the feeds too fast, but didn’t want the thing running for 20 hours. Instead it went for 9! Missed some steps, so it took out the right side of the skull and horns.
Also don’t do this with a 60deg v bit!!
Here’s one without the background routed out.
vicious1KeymasterApril 12, 2016 at 8:29 amPost count: 2656
I love cable ties! If you see I have some on some recent vids….screw it.vicious1KeymasterApril 12, 2016 at 8:30 amPost count: 2656
I have all the stuff to make some large stamps, Looks like you vbit might be alright for cutting stamps foam/rubber.BarryParticipantApril 12, 2016 at 12:07 pmPost count: 331
Waaay back in middle school(1988-ish), we used vinyl tile scraps to make cheap woodcut prints. Should be able to do the same with this. Need to make sure the bed is super level though. Depth is what makes your lines thick or thin!Drew RoggeParticipantApril 12, 2016 at 6:21 pmPost count: 35
It looks like you’re using a normal wood cutting v bit. You might want to try one meant for metal. It would probably have a better cutting edge an tool geometry so less pressure on the router mount.JeffParticipantApril 13, 2016 at 6:30 amPost count: 157
Maybe the mount is a good candidate for milling a replacement part? Would the zip tie hold up enough to mill a new piece? You’d have to drill the hole afterward by hand, and then, of course, the main side would fail next…BarryParticipantApril 13, 2016 at 10:06 amPost count: 331
The router wasn’t running when it broke. I broke it while changing out the bit!BarryParticipantApril 13, 2016 at 10:08 amPost count: 331
I’m just going to keep the zip tie in place. Pretty sure it’s stronger than the clamp where the screws go through. That’s what keep breaking on me. The damn screw holes aren’t strong enough.JasonParticipantApril 13, 2016 at 10:11 amPost count: 330
Looking at the pic of the break it looks like it needs more material to increase its strength. Looks like its kinda using the minimum required to do the job.BarryParticipantApril 13, 2016 at 4:15 pmPost count: 331
I’ve been designing a mod for the existing mount in my head for the last day or so. What I’m planning is take the standard lower mount, join the halves together but leave it oversize, kinda like an oval. Then put in a part on a screw that clamps the router to the back half of the oval. That way, there’s no screws holding two thin pieces of plastic together. My biggest problem at the moment is the moving part is captured in a groove, and petg doesn’t do overhangs or support very well. PLA is garbage in my opinion, good for paper weights and vases and that’s about it.JasonParticipantApril 14, 2016 at 6:48 amPost count: 330
I have had success printing ABS as of late printing at 255 degrees with the fan on (for overhangs)… Your bond to the build plate must be very strong though other wise it will warp off in no time. I also run a space heater in the room while it is printing. Makes the room about 35-40 Celsius or so. I printed some calibration cube and the dimensions were very close to perfect so shrinkage was not an issue.
If your hot end will allow you to print hotter print hotter. I read an article about this guy that was getting crappy ABS prints the cranked the heat and turned on the fan then it was printing beautifully. He had an all metal hot end so was printing at like 280.BarryParticipantApril 14, 2016 at 7:20 amPost count: 331
I print pet-g, which prints at the same temp as abs, it just doesn’t warp as bad as abs. Awesome plastic. It just doesn’t like to bridge very well. I might design the part without the slot. Probably doesn’t need it. E3D v6 hot ends freaking rock! I need to get a larger nozzle though. Larger nozzles make stronger parts, more melt between the layers.JeffParticipantApril 14, 2016 at 8:58 amPost count: 157
I think this hinge mount looks pretty strong, and you can flip the “top” side to print without overhangs:
I tried merging the allted one with this, using just the STL files in sketchup, but my CAD foo is not strong. I broke the upper mount once (and reprinted in PETG) but I haven’t broken the bottom part yet.
I really want to love PETG, but it sometimes just really really screws up. I think the root of the problem is that the filament prefers to stick to the nozzle (or the molten plastic) more than the solid plastic, so if there is any extra extrusion (or overhang material) it will prefer to collect in a blob on the nozzle, and deposit itself as a big bump later on. PLA doesn’t seem to do that, it just leaves a little more plastic with the stuff it extruded. The blobs cause a real problem later on, when the nozzle bumps into a 5mm blob of hard plastic… You should see some of the epic failures I’ve had with this stuff. When it fails, it fails HARD.
I’ve been printing PETG at 260C with no cooling, and the bed has to be absolutely perfectly level. I went so far as to level while printing the first layer on a big print to get it right. I’ve never had to be that precise with PLA. For something that’s flat, or at least really solid, without any small parts, and without any overhangs, and with a lot of infill, PETG has created some great prints, but I can’t print a bunch of the stuff that has been easy on PLA. Definitely an advanced filament, IMO. I don’t have a ton of experience with ABS, but maybe it would be easier coming from ABS. I could probably print all the parts but the better middle Z in PETG. Probably. Things like the cable chain would have had me pulling my hair out, I’m sure.
I like that it is stronger than PLA. I like that it has a higher glass temperature than PLA. I like that it only needs a 60C bed vs. ABS, and it sticks well to blue tape.
I’m pretty sure PETG isn’t really that standard either, because the hatchbox stuff I’ve been printing has a temp range of 240-260, and the inland stuff is 235-255, and I’ve seen some expensive PETG with even lower temperature suggestions.
I have a MK10 extruder, which I upgraded to the micro swiss all metal. I wonder if I shouldn’t have bought the e3 instead.
BTW, I just got my two mystery rolls from makergeeks, and I got “bomber jacket brown” (which looks like a really dark brown) and “HD Glow Glass” (which is see through/glow in the dark, not very bright glow in the dark). But for $33, they will definitely make some functional parts. I might make a glow in the dark printer pretty as my next project.JasonParticipantApril 15, 2016 at 4:41 amPost count: 330
I got bored and came up with this… My machine unfortunately is not too the point where I can test this yet but it should be quite a bit stronger then the original as there is more material where it has been breaking. Having it slide on the Z axis rails should provide some stability too or at least that is the goal.
Attachments:JeffParticipantApril 15, 2016 at 6:02 amPost count: 157
That looks nice and beefy. I think that should work a lot better.
Just thinking out loud. It seems that the ideal would be the clamp part just holding the router to the main part, and the main part should be working to hold the tool up and holding the dust shoe on. I see there is a lip on the clamp. It would be better if that was on the main side. I don’t know how to make the dust shoe attachment go to the main side, but that would help as well.
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