Dave's 24" x 24" Build

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC Dave's 24" x 24" Build

This topic contains 39 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Dave Gun Dave Gun 1 year, 3 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 40 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #6717
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Hi Makers,

    I’m just starting to build a 2’x2′ MPCnC. I’ve been toying with the idea of building a CnC for a while. I saw this on the Hackaday blog, and it’s just what I have been looking for. The bundle kit is great, and saves me a bunch of time figuring out what I need, and ordering parts from all over the world. I have a PrintrBot Simple, a bunch of filament and a hardware store close by. I couldn’t resist the Buy Now button. My kit is on the way!

    I plan to use this mostly for small projects, plastics, plexi-glass, PCB’s, and aluminum things. I’m going small. If I want big, like I decide to carve out a new front door, I can buy more EMT. Once I get this up and running, I would like to try some vinyl cutting, and maybe some laser burning. Maybe screw on a print head if I need to make something bigger than my little printer can handle.

    First decision is what color will I use. I have a big roll of blue and roll of white on hand. Looks like it will be blue and white. I started printing a few days ago, and I have a Rigid Coupler, 4 Corner Blocks, one Roller F, and another Roller F in the printer. I checked the sizes of all the parts, and they all can printed on my 100 mm cubed PrintrBot except for the new Rigid Z. I could print the old one, but I’m going to try a cut version. I cut it in the center, and I have two printed pins that will go inside the cut. I will glue these together. If it works, I will share what I have. Outside of that, the rest will be stock.

    I’m trying to determine the build area size. I found a few hints, it will be about 13 inches square, and that will be good. So I could get a better understanding of how this all goes together, I put together a virtual model in D123 and I colored the parts to match my plan. This is a big help understanding how it goes together before I start building.

    I can also see the legs need to attach to a table to make this rigid. I want this small so I can move it from the basement shop to the garage. I live in Wisconsin, and I have an unheated garage. It’s too cold to do much work out there this time of year except for emergency repairs to the snowmobiles! I like the design of the one in the assembly instructions. I think I will do something similar except without legs. I want to keep the CnC legs short, and if I need more depth, the spoil board could be removed and lowered.

    I will post up pictures and updates as I go. Any suggestions are welcome!

    Dave

    Attachments:
    #6719
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    File to big, here is a smaller version.

    Attachments:
    #6721
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Awesome! Welcome.

    Looks like you have read through the site and took in most of the information even though its scattered all over the site. On thingiverse geodave has made a build calculator it should answer anyquestions you might have on build/cut sizes.

    Keep us updated, hooefully I shipped your kit already, I took the day off, so if i didn’t it will be on its way monday morning.

    R

    #6722
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Awesome! Welcome.

    Looks like you have read through the site and took in most of the information even though its scattered all over the site. On thingiverse geodave has made a build calculator it should answer anyquestions you might have on build/cut sizes.

    Keep us updated, hooefully I shipped your kit already, I took the day off, so if i didn’t it will be on its way monday morning.

    R

    #6724
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Ryan,

    Thanks, I have been poking around here and Thingiverse, lots of good information! I had a bunch of questions, but found answers to everything.

    I have a lot to do before I need anything in the box, so I’m not in the rush πŸ™‚ Great web site and nice collection of things in the shop.

    Thanks,
    Dave

    #6774
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    My Corner Blocks and Roller Fs are finished. They all came out good. I have test fitted the corner blocks on the conduit and they fit. It’s a tight fit. The EMT is lightly sanded and I used steel wool to smooth the surface of the EMT

    I have been keeping my printer running, and I rarely do print times this long. After the first print of the Corner Blocks, I noticed the extruder stepper was getting very hot. My extruder/hot end is attached directly to the stepper on my printer and it the extruder has no cooling. I hung a small 40mm fan on the motor and this keeps it nice an cool. It also helps keep the filament cool as it runs through the extruder. Last night after running back to back prints, my other steppers were getting hot, I found another 12V fan and attached it to a battery pack. I put this in the back of the printer and this seems to help.

    Today I printed the first Middle Z. I had to cut the part so it fits on my printer. After it was cut, I could fit both parts in the print space and do a complete Middle Z in one print. The attached picture shows the cut with the two pins inserted into one side. I also included close ups of it assembled. I will wait to glue them when I get the second one done.

    Dave

    #6778
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Your steppers can get warm to the touch no problem. Most are spec’d to almost 100C continuous. On all my printers I have had to adjust the driver voltage, they are all over the place. If you think they are too hot just turn down the drivers a bit.

    Those pins make me nervous, not for strength but for accuracy. If you find you z is a little skewed just use the MPCNC to print new ones when it’s done. Then replace them.

    Pretty cool though, progress is always good. I still get excited when I build a new one so hopefully it’s a little like that for you.

    #6779
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    What I did in D123 is first make the cut, I positioned the pins inside the part, then subtracted the pins. The pins should align the two halves if the cut surfaces printed perfectly. I sanded the sides on a flat board to remove any high spots and the halves mate up tight. I just need to make sure it mates up good when I glue them. I will also need to measure it up good once I get the Z axis mocked up.

    There is a Hacker Space in town I have always wanted to check out. I think they have a printer πŸ™‚

    Thanks for our input, that really helps!

    Dave

    #6905
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    My parts bundle came yesterday!! I used up all but a few coils of blue filament so I finished printing blue for now. I should have more blue filament by the end of the week to finish up the blue parts. The white Corner Block Locks are done, and the Roller Locks are printing.

    While waiting on prints to finish, I organized my parts and did a quick inventory. I soldered up the resistor to a piece of 0.1in female header ( https://www.adafruit.com/products/598 )to make a socket so the resistor can be removed. I also tested the RAMPS/Mega board by connecting 3 stepper motors and connecting the power supply. I used Repetier to move the motors. I had some problems, but got it to work with another Mega I had on hand. I put a post in the Trouble Shooting section on this.

    I test fit the motors on the mounts, and test fit all the screws and bolts. Some I had to run a drill bit through so the bolt slid cleanly into the hole. The holes for the solder-less wire connectors need to be tight so the screw will thread into the plastic. An 1/8 inch bit seemed to be the right size, so I drilled these and started all the screws.

    I’m very impressed with the design of all the parts. I can see the detail put into these parts to make them printer friendly and strong. Well done!

    Dave

    #6913
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    So organized…or was that just for the pictures (thats what I do)? Hahah. I we get you up and running soon.

    #6935
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Organized Chaos, the parts table is organized, the rest is Chaos! πŸ™‚

    #7147
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Most of my major parts are printed. I have been test fitting all the parts as I go. Some holes needed a drill bit run through them. Most of the nut pockets were too tight so I used an xacto knife to take off the edge, and a small flat hobby file to remove anything inside the pocket. All of the bearing slots that had plastic on both sides I needed to file a bit to get the bearing to slide in.

    The roller locks took the most work. There is no way the tubes would slide in these. I found a plumbing tool that was just a bit smaller diameter than the OD of the conduit. I wrapped sand paper around the tool, then sanded out the inside of just the roller lock until the conduit would fit and the mounting screws would start into the nuts.

    I loosely assembled the corner blocks and roller assembly. I lightly sanded and finished the rails with steel wool, so they are all smooth. I put together the frame with rollers and test fit the gantry rails, everything seems nice and tight, and rolls smooth.

    As my Z axis parts are finished, I started test fitting the Z axis parts. I’m feeling good about the cut Middle Z part. I have not glued this yet because I want to make sure the joint didn’t cause a misalignment. I think is looking good. I was mostly concerned the joint would have made the part a bit longer, but I’m sure it is very close.

    I want to print my tool holder so I need a tool. Harbor Freight has a sale on there ¼” Trim Router, so I picked up one of these. I found a holder for this on Thingiverse. I did a little modification to it to reduce some plastic. The nut traps are a bit to large for my printer, so I had to shorten these a bit. The holes in the conduit are drilled and nut traps test fitted. I should be able to put together the z axis soon.

    I’m enjoying the build. The printed parts are well designed, and the kit has all the parts to put it together.

    Dave

    #7151
    Profile photo of Dave Schneider
    Dave Schneider
    Participant

    Very nice, I am a couple of days behind you in your build. 10 minutes till the Z nut locks finish then I can finish the middle section. After that I finish the Z section. This is my first cnc build. I have owned my Printrbot Simple Metal for about a year now. I have mainly been using google sketchup to make my own little parts to help me with everyday life. I came across mpcnc by accident on thingsverse, I printed a corner block as a test to see how accurate my printer was and it fit perfectly. Two days later I had ordered the parts bundle and had quite a few parts printed. I didn’t put much thought into a color scheme so I kept on printing with what I had on hand, glow in the dark pla. Kind of strange but it seems very strong. My plans are also to build 24 x24 machine. I look forward to following your progress.

    #7160
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Dave,

    Very cool, you should post some pictures, I would like to see how yours is looking! Maybe a lights out shot πŸ™‚

    I have had my printer for about a year. I make a lot of mechanical things that need to fit together. I have always been impressed how accurate you can make parts. But I always need to do some kind of post printing adjustments, like drilling out holes to size, filing inner surfaces, etc. I can appreciate the nice job Ryan did designing these parts that are printed on all different printers and different brands of filaments. I didn’t find a lot build posts with little issues people had and how they did it, so I thought I would include some build notes in my post.

    I have been using D123 for design. Its by Autodesk and free for personal use. It isn’t overly complicated to use, and has all the tools to make things to scale.

    I hope to have my Z axis put together this afternoon before the Superbowl, while I’m at this I will print out my legs. Good luck on your build!

    Dave

    #7175
    Profile photo of Dave Schneider
    Dave Schneider
    Participant

    At 2:00 am I came to the realization that I printed the ie version of Better Middle Z. It all went together but was too large. Oh well, start again when my new filament arrives.

    #7204
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Ouch, I printed an extra motor mount. I lost count and just kept making parts. This put me short on blue filament. I had an order into Amazon 2nd day air delivery for Hatchbox Filament. It took them 4 days to put 4 rolls into a box and ship it. They did make up for it by sending it overnight πŸ™‚

    #7205
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    WOW! That’s exactly what I said when I put together the Middle Assembly. Putting that together had to be the coolest part of the build. Then I started seeing all the mistakes I made (attached picture called OPPS). I forgot two bearings, and the bolts are all backwards in the the Middle Z. Well, it was so fun, I did it again. I took the Middle Assembly apart, fixed the problems and put it together again (attached Picture WOW). Attention to the assembly detail is important. With the bolts put in backwards, I would have had alignment problems when I put in the lead screw. It was helpful to build the model in 3D first so I had a better understanding of how this all fits together.

    I couldn’t resist to put it all together, so I call this my test fit. The movement seems smooth and tight.

    I’m printing the legs now. I will work on mounting the stepper motors and wiring. After that I will put it on a good flat level base board and start squaring it up.

    #7474
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Getting closer. The legs are on, I screwed and hot glued them. I had a lot of sanding and filing to get the conduits into the printed leg parts. I’m noticing a big difference in filaments. Some filaments take less post printing work than others.

    The frame is squared up, and I’m printing my tool holder. I have a small tool holder on now for testing. Next I will work on the wiring. I’m not going to use the solder-less connections. I made up some connectors and will post more on this later. I’m also going to ground all the metal parts. The air is dry here in the winter and electrostatic shocks are common. Electronics hate to be zapped with a few thousand volts.

    Dave

    #7585
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    It lives! Here is a Pen Plot:

    #7599
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nice! Sounds like it actually went pretty smooth for you. The video is with the 2 part rigid z, still? If so that is some good work on that.

    #7600
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    The relative humidity in my house is low and static electricity is an issue. I can go two steps from my PC to the CNC and get a shock that stings. I ground everything to protect the electronics from ESD. The bearings are conductive, so grounded the conduit at the ends with a small insert that fits in the ends of the conduit. I just stripped back a wire and ran it between the insert and conduit. The rollers have a wire from the bearing bolt, to the conduit, to the motor mounting screws. The middle assembly is grounding from bearing bolt to bearing bolt. The Z motor is grounded from the conduit, up the riser to the motor mourning screw (see pictures). I connected the ground to the negative terminal for one of the unused heaters.

    Because of this problem, I didn’t want to use the exposed solderless connectors on the rollers. I made up two connectors by using male and female headers that I use for my Arduino projects. They are the same spacing as the stepper motor connectors that came with the kit. I just reverse one motor connection for the x and y motors so one of the motors run in reverse. The jumpers connect 3 male headers. I used the cables from the kit and put two female headers on each end of an extension (see pictures).

    #7607
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Yes, the 2 part ridged z seems to work well. When it is fully seated on the pins, it aligns nice. I used super glue to bond it together. The best I can tell using a square, the final assembly seems square.

    Thanks,

    Dave

    #7849
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    I changed my plan for my table base. The feet are mounted to a solid piece of Β½ inch MDF and I put the waste board on top of that. Holes were drilled under the feet so I lowered the conduit Β½ inch into these holes, and with the waste board, it’s now one inch lower.

    Now I am learning the software. I’m using Estlcam. I started testing with pen plots. My circles were not closing well, so I tightened the belts a little at a time until the circles closed perfectly.

    Pen plots got old and I want to cut stuff. For learning and testing I decided to print a mount for my Dremel. I found an old piece of foam board and started cutting small tests.

    I’m really happy with the way the MPCNC performs so far. I am having a lot of fun with this!

    Dave

    #7873
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nice looking setup!

    I think you are going about this the right way. I highly recommend start with a pen. I think you learn a lot that way, level surface, speeds, mount rigidity, how to use the software. Next step a dremel, who doesn’t have a rotary tool, on hd foam. Fastest, safest way to learn..

    Thanks for drawing the logo I still love seeing them. I have been dying to do some sort of contest and I wanted to start small to make sure It worked fairly and yours gave me an Idea. What do you think a small cash prize $20-$50 for best logo picture with the machine in the pic. Just like the one you have there. People can submit there logo made with the MPCNC, plotted, milled, etched, whatever. Then If I can find some voting software, everyone can vote for the winner? If we get all the bugs worked out and no one cheats we can do a bigger contest.

    The Boca Bearings contest was a lot of fun for me and I have wanted to do my own ever since.

    #7895
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    How cool is it to see one persons vision be created in homes all over the world!

    I think the contest idea would be fun. It would be a neat way for us all to show off our machines.

    Dave

    #8038
    Profile photo of Walter
    Walter
    Participant

    They seem extremely strong beause the glow in the dark filament is nearly as strong as the carbon fiber type filaments out there. the tiny granuals of glow in the dark material is nearly as strong as the carbon granuals in the cf filament. it’s also just as detrimental to your nozzle as carbon or iron fill. so by the end of your build you’ll probably be replacing that nozzle

    #8053
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    I outgrew my Dremel, so I screwed on my Harbor Freight trim router. The Dremel worked fine for learning with foam and wood, but it just couldn’t cut the acrylic. I read what I could find about cutting acrylic on the internet and determined the Dremel couldn’t handle the feed rate I needed, and didn’t have enough power at a slower rpm.

    A few things I notice on this trim router. The fan that cools the router blows out the bottom over the bit. This helps blow away the chips near the bit. It also doesn’t have a built in variable speed, but I have it plugged into a variable speed controller. The best thing about the router is it only cost $30! The remote speed controller worked good for cutting the acrylic. I could dial in the speed between melting and chipping the acrylic while it was cutting some test cuts.

    The picture below shows my first cut of a RAMPS box I plan to make out of acrylic.

    Dave

    Attachments:
    #8060
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Here is a video:

    I used a 1/8″ Double Flute Straight Bit, 20.0mm/s Feed Rate and 1mm Z steps.

    #8063
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    All of your videos are unlisted. Do you mind if I add them to the main playlist?

    #8064
    Profile photo of Dave Gun
    Dave Gun
    Participant

    Sure, no problem.

    Thanks,

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 40 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.