Tags: estlcam gcode screen
- baysailParticipantJuly 1, 2015 at 4:17 amPost count: 3
This may be obvious but I believe the standard gcode comment is to start with a semicolon. So to remove the comment lines Estlcam from the output gcode file just open it in a text editor and substitute the ( character for ; and do a REPLACE ALL then you don’t have to manually delete all lines enclosed in parentheses. I couldn’t find a way in Estlcam to not have it generate these comment lines.Silverback94ParticipantAugust 20, 2015 at 9:37 amPost count: 3
I found where you can edit the test that Estlcam puts in the gcode its under the setup tab next to workspace then texts tab then program start, there are other tabs there as well that you can edit.
Tested it and it works great no more generate code and delete stuff before you run it…autox3dParticipantAugust 29, 2015 at 6:43 pmPost count: 62
I found the same it is in the starting code.
Btw if you use the settings for grbl output repetier will run the .nc code just fine.
If you run Simplify3D it will open and run .nc files but you have to select “display all files”Christian KnuellParticipantSeptember 3, 2015 at 9:33 pmPost count: 21vicious1KeymasterSeptember 3, 2015 at 9:38 pmPost count: 2649
Awesome! I’ll try and get you a file this weekend.
Thank you very much for the program, very easy to use. I have recommended it since I first tried it.vicious1KeymasterSeptember 26, 2015 at 3:06 pmPost count: 2649
Yes! Christian did a great job. I changed the estlcam tutorial a bit to reflect the changes. Basically just use the Marlin settings.Christian KnuellParticipantOctober 20, 2015 at 1:34 amPost count: 21
Estlcams USB CNC controller now supports a GRBL compatible pin layout:
Maybe this is interesting for some of you if you’re using an Arduino UNO with GRBL – especially if you want to use a gamepad to jog the machine.
(However it is unfortunately not compatible with Marlin / Ramps hardware – maybe I’ll add this in the future).
Christianvicious1KeymasterOctober 20, 2015 at 7:26 amPost count: 2649
I have a grbl compatible board, but I haven’t tried it yet. Still doing to much 3D printing. I need to finish the second machine so I can get back to cutting and see what grbl is all about.
Thanks for keeping us up to date Christian.CurtParticipantOctober 23, 2015 at 8:45 amPost count: 173
I want to say THANK YOU to Christian for a great product. After proving the software met my needs I am happy to say that I bought a license for EstlCam.
Support the developer who is helping us!!Bluff ChufferParticipantOctober 26, 2015 at 8:41 pmPost count: 6
Yes, thanks Christian for Estlcam. I had an older Arduino Uno (not an R3) lying around, unused, and with the instructions in the video above made it work on my old XP laptop – no electronics attached yet – ran Gcode etc etc. It did not seem to like working on my Win 7 64 bit pc – resetting Z axis to ‘0’ reset X and Y as well. So obviously need the R3 one with the pc.
I would welcome a direct connection from EstlCam to ‘Marlin’ boards – make gcode and ‘GO’!!karltinslyParticipantOctober 30, 2015 at 4:58 amPost count: 279
Just purchased mine. Great product, and so cool that Christian added specific support for the MPCNC. Thanks, Christian!
KarlSimonParticipantNovember 15, 2015 at 8:25 amPost count: 43
I purchased Estlcam and I love it. Only thing is I don’t know how to pocket in between two drawings. Like an Aztec pyramid having outer pockets that are lower and inner pockets that gradually get higher. I can’t seem to get it to work. Any advice? Also when I upload an estl version it takes 9hours to mill versus 3 hours. I am currently using autocad and simply offsetting the perimeters as a smaller width than the bit and manually engraving each line but it gets tiring doing this every time I try to achieve this.vicious1KeymasterNovember 15, 2015 at 9:33 amPost count: 2649
On the outer most line you should be able to select, inside (select a depth and pocket), as you step in you just repeat the steps deeper and deeper. Did that not work?SimonParticipantNovember 15, 2015 at 1:45 pmPost count: 43
I’m trying to do it the other way around, the inner most point being the highest and the outermost being the lowest.vicious1KeymasterNovember 15, 2015 at 1:49 pmPost count: 2649
Try bringing it in as a solid stl and cut it that way.SimonParticipantNovember 20, 2015 at 5:07 pmPost count: 43
I’m having difficulty with the carve tool. It does not respond to tool depth. Also some sections of my lines are randomly machined at almost half the depth. Any clues?vicious1KeymasterNovember 20, 2015 at 5:11 pmPost count: 2649
If your lines are narrow it will not go very deep. It is carving it. You can mill it and it will go to whatever depth you want. The carve function is for a v bit and pointed lines. A mill can not get you a pointed line it will always have the round of the bit radius.
With the carve it will only go the full depth if you have a large open area or a line wider than your v bit angle.SimonParticipantNovember 20, 2015 at 9:55 pmPost count: 43
Ok that makes a lot of sense now. The only other problem is that when I run a file the cnc cuts the first few letters and the the next sets of letter show up deeper. This is also letters in the same font and word even. It is visible that the first 3 or for letters are close to half the depth. Ill have to upload photos of this.SimonParticipantDecember 4, 2015 at 11:13 amPost count: 43
I am having an issue with my machine starting. I 3D printed a 1″ cube on my Robo and want to use that as my starting point. When I set the clearance plane to 1″ it starts by moving up and then to the workspace, and then plunges to about a half inch above the surface. I have tried starting at clearance plane, clearance plane to origin, origin to clearance plane, and above origin. I am stumped and don’t quite understand why despite me setting the clearance plane it continues to offset itself by some mystery distance.vicious1KeymasterDecember 4, 2015 at 11:53 amPost count: 2649
What is your depth of cut set at? Maybe a screenshot of your tool settings might help.vicious1KeymasterDecember 4, 2015 at 3:41 pmPost count: 2649
Sorry I was wrong I’ll look again in a fewvicious1KeymasterDecember 4, 2015 at 4:18 pmPost count: 2649
When you move your tool to what you want as home-0,0,0 Does its position read 0,0,0 on the screen? If you move it manually you need to reset the zero points before you start. I usually get it where I want it and reset it real quick. Or you can just reset home with the lcd or the gcode sent through marlin.SimonParticipantDecember 4, 2015 at 7:44 pmPost count: 43
Using repeteir after I set it I reset everything to zerovicious1KeymasterDecember 4, 2015 at 8:02 pmPost count: 2649
That looks right without double checking everything.
Your plunge rate is too high, but that should cause your problem. Max z rate is 8.7mm/s, working speed is much slower (2-4mm/s) unless you are using my beta firmware.
Can you cut and paste your first 30 or so lines of the gcode.
All of your other movements are the correct distance?
Are you using the the hardware bought from here? If not, what board, drivers, step rate, pulley size?SimonParticipantDecember 4, 2015 at 9:25 pmPost count: 43
No. I have done a lot of cuts. 90% fails due to mechanical errors. Unfortunately I won’t be able to get you that Gcode. I left my garage for about 20 minutes and the machine kamakazied into the build platform and melted the lower eng of my dewalt. It seems okay but I need to reprint some stuff.
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