Tags: heated bed
- vicious1KeymasterOctober 23, 2015 at 10:49 amPost count: 2676
My new shop is pretty cold, about 17-18C most of the day. I couldn’t rely on my prints sticking without a heated bed. So I had to modify the firmware (should do an update but it changes the D8 to D10).
Used some springs and screws to make it an easy level platform like most printers are. Level this buy moving the extruder nozzle to each corner and adjusting the screws, do each corner at least 2 times or until it is right.
I was also getting a funny texture in my prints, solved this by turning up the extruder driver to .9V.
Attachments:3dTIParticipantNovember 7, 2015 at 7:14 pmPost count: 70
Nice levelling solution. What size heated beds did you settle on?
I have been looking for larger options but there isn’t really much around.
Wanted something 400mm+. I think I might just end up placing several side by side and placing a large borosilicate glass plate over the top.
What are your thoughts on a solution for a larger heated bed?
Justin.vicious1KeymasterNovember 8, 2015 at 10:04 amPost count: 2676
Easy way would be 2 beds side by side with 1 sheet of glass over it. The other option is aluminum with custom wired resistors and a large power supply.3dTIParticipantNovember 9, 2015 at 12:21 amPost count: 70
Multiple heated beds side by side is the only viable solution I think.
The actual beds are quite cheap so I think I’ll just order 4x 200mm2 beds and then a sheet of 400mm2 borosilicate glass.
I would also like a 200mmx600mm shaped bed too. Maybe down the track.vicious1KeymasterNovember 9, 2015 at 6:07 amPost count: 2676
Controlling 4 beds will require at least 2 ramps sets. Unless you have a stand alone pid.3dTIParticipantNovember 9, 2015 at 9:39 pmPost count: 70
I was thinking of using a pair of 12v10A power supplies, some MOSFETs, and a spare Arduino.
I used a similar setup to control the upgraded 24v Power Supply for the heated bed of my K8200 3d printer.WalterParticipantFebruary 16, 2016 at 8:15 amPost count: 188
Why not use multiple beds wired into a single ssr and control them from the single output on the ramps board. the only issue will be where to place the thermister and how reliable it will be with that much surface areavicious1KeymasterFebruary 16, 2016 at 8:20 amPost count: 2676
Probably get a very inconsistent temp across the bed even if they were all binded to an aluminum plate.nerdyrcdriverParticipantFebruary 16, 2016 at 9:29 amPost count: 187
Controlling it with a spare arduino seems the best way to go. Put thermistors on each bed and slowly heat them up until they are within a couple degrees of each other. It wouldn’t be hard to use a rotary encoder to change the temp setting and have a small Hitachi HD44780 based display read out the set value and the temperatures of each bed. On the slicing side, just set it up like there is no heated bed. Doing that might change a few of the more advanced settings, but I don’t think that should really be an issue. Just heat the beds up before starting the print with the ramps board.WalterParticipantFebruary 16, 2016 at 6:02 pmPost count: 188
Yeah but you only need the bed to stay warm it doesn’t have to be dead accurate. as long as there aren’t huge temperature differences between the boards. You could mill down into the table add the 4 plates and using some thermal tape, adhere them all to a thin sheet of aluminum then the glass bed on top.JamesParticipantApril 12, 2016 at 8:12 amPost count: 25
Is there a walkthrough somewhere of setting up for 3D printing? I bought all the goods, but I’m not sure how to set everything up
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.