Tags: Makergeek pla
- 3dTIParticipantDecember 30, 2015 at 5:18 amPost count: 70
Quick video of my MPCNC running for the first time. Apologies for the average video quality, and even worse cinematography lol.
As you can see, not finished yet. Still waiting on cable chains, need to complete spill board, and make a permanent enclosure for the electronics and power supplies. But its a first step, and getting up and running has motivated me to push forward and complete the build.
Big thanks to everyone who offered sage like advice during the build process thus far, and a huge thanks to Ryan for his amazing design, and generosity sharing it with the community.
Justin.karltinslyParticipantDecember 30, 2015 at 7:12 amPost count: 279
Congratulations, Justin! Looking good! I especially like your simple but effective pen holder.
KarlMatthew KennedyParticipantDecember 30, 2015 at 7:32 amPost count: 17
Hey, nice pen holder idea! I mounted my DW660 with two uppers so I could use a dust shoe, and was thinking about making a pen holder insert. This is much better!3dTIParticipantDecember 30, 2015 at 5:18 pmPost count: 70
The mounts are actually Makita RT0700CX mounts designed and generously shared by joeskilton a fellow forum member. Link. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1008647
It was a last minute “quick fix” with a couple of silicone o-rings to attach the pen. I had always planned on printing an adapter to mount a sharpie in to the mounts properly, but the o-ring trick works so well I don’t think I’ll bother.
I’m working on my spill board now, glue will have to set overnight, then tomorrow I’ll set up the mill with the RT0700CX for the first time and let the MPCNC drill its own holes for all the threaded inserts, and “deck” the spill board if I can hunt down a suitable milling bit.
I’ll post some updates when I can.
Justin.alanParticipantDecember 30, 2015 at 5:38 pmPost count: 80
I found a decent 3/4″ flat mill at Lowes. I think it was a 1/4″ collet insert though. Does a good enough job, though I could probably greatly decrease the stepover. My 1000mmx1000mm wasteboard takes a few hours to flatten at roughly 30 inches/min.SteveCParticipantDecember 30, 2015 at 7:56 pmPost count: 132
I used 1/4″ threaded inserts in MDF and it really worked out well. Photo of my setup here:http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/cosx2y2-milled-in-wood-post-1/#post-4673.
If that mount is for the US conduit version and you find that it is not stiff enough try mine: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1039033. Sorry that I did not make an international version.SteveCParticipantDecember 30, 2015 at 8:07 pmPost count: 132
Can you give me a link to that flat mill at Lowes? I don’t understand which router bits work well for facing. Router bits all look very different from dedicated facing mill bits.3dTIParticipantDecember 31, 2015 at 5:10 amPost count: 70
Thanks for the link mate, but I’m an Australian resident. I purchased a couple of cheap router bits from Bunnings (similar to your Lowes stores) and will experiment with them until my proper end mills arrive. What depth do you cut when you flatten your spill board? I’m very new to milling and am looking for some recommended feed rates, speeds, and depths to cut?
I spotted your Makita mount first, and liked the look, but sadly I need an IE version for my machine. I’ll experiment with joeskilton’s mounts, and if they prove too weak I’ll just design some different ones in Fusion360 (which is my new favorite software, SOOOO powerful and simple to use). Your MPCNC looks great, I like the wooden legs. I almost went this rout, didn’t (and still don’t) like the design of the recommended feet.
Justin.alanParticipantDecember 31, 2015 at 5:56 amPost count: 80
This is what I have:
Feed and Depth of cut rates depend greatly on size of bit, material, and RPM of your spindle.
My wasteboard had a serious “bowl” to it, so I had to cut almost 1/8″ (~3mm) off it, and I was doing it at something like 7 passes with a rate of 30 inches/min. I’m using a Chinese spindle that came with my machine. If I had something like a Dewalt 611 (660? I forget which one is “popular” now) ….I’ve seen people chewing through MDF at well over 90 inches/min with something that powerful.
But really, if it’s already mostly flat, chances are you have to take off less than 1mm total, and could do that in 1-2 passes if you’re using a decent router as the spindle.3dTIParticipantDecember 31, 2015 at 6:15 pmPost count: 70
The bit that I have is basically identical to the one you linked. My spindle is the Makita RT0700CX http://www.makita.com.au/products/power-tools/planers-trimmers-a-routers/trimmers/rt0700cx-roumer-635mm On paper it seems a rough match to the dewalt item the US guys are using.
I was thinking of starting with a couple of test passes @ .5mm (on scrap mdf) at approx 20000rpm, with a conservative feed rate, then try speeding up the feed with each pass to see where I can get to?
My spill board is rather large? (600mmx900mm) so the faster the speed the better I guess.
Justin.SteveCParticipantDecember 31, 2015 at 8:53 pmPost count: 132
That’s pretty cheap. I will get one.3dTIParticipantJanuary 1, 2016 at 4:26 amPost count: 70
Quick update. No milling yet, but spill board is complete!
Started with 2x sheets of 900 * 600 * 16 mm MDF
Basic layout of insets and through bolts.
Pattern on board. I used the same pattern to place the screws to clamp the board together while the glue set
Great glue for wood working if anyone is looking for some. Easily the best I have used. Waterproof and food safe to boot!
Screwed and weighted while glue sets over night.
Holes drilled for inserts and through bolts. I also at this stage sealed the back side, the edges and the through holes with a 50/50 mix of the PVA glue and water. Its horribly humid here for most of the year, so I wanted to minimize the chance of water ingress.
Six of these hold the spill board to the table (M8 * 60mm Stainless)
Spill board in place. Happy days 🙂
Sorry for the Google Drive links, but it was heaps easier than re sizing all the files and then having to post twice because there is a limit of 4 files per post.
Wish me luck tomorrow for the first proper milling attempt. Should be fun!
Justin.vicious1KeymasterJanuary 1, 2016 at 10:14 pmPost count: 2639
Nice looking build! I don’t mind the gdrive links, keeps them nice and high def that way.
Hope the milling goes well.3dTIParticipantJanuary 3, 2016 at 5:20 amPost count: 70
Spill board successfuly decked! I was lucky and only needed 3 passes @.5mm to get the usable area (800mm*600mm) true.
Apart from a frustrating few minutes getting to grips with estlcam (I used a 3d model of my spill board to generate g code, probably the wrong way of going about it, but still learning these things) it did my head in until I realised what I was doing wrong.
It really is a brilliant piece of software, but the documentation is pretty vague. It was a great learning experience though. And now I feel much more comfortable using it.
Sorry no video, my camera had a flat battery 🙁 but I’ll post up a couple of pics soon.
Next up, I’m going to mill some pieces of 3mm ply to construct a permanent enclosure for my electronics and PSU. One because MDF dust is horrid! And two because active cooling the drivers is critical. They get very warm, very quickly otherwise. I now have a small fan zip tied “ghetto” style to keep them cool. Function? Yes. Pretty? Nope.
The fusion 360 design is almost complete. Again slow going as I am still learning the software, but I really like fusion 360. The documentation and tutorials are amazing. Makes learning to use it a joy.3dTIParticipantJanuary 3, 2016 at 5:44 amPost count: 70
Thanks mate. Milling was a success. Couple of small headaches aside.
Two quick questions.
Do you make available the vicious logo files? I wanted to carve/engrave one on my electronics enclosure?
Second. I’m still a little confused as to where to start/finish my cuts.
I’ve been starting the CNC programme ‘at origin’ and finishing ‘above origin’ in the setup in estlcam. Will this work, or will Repeater Host override these commands?
I have not attempted to run g code straight from a sd card yet. Does it simply things running straight from a sd card using the LCD controller?
Sorry if these are silly questions. I wish I had more time to spend experimenting and reading/learning. It seems there is never enough hours I’m a day lol.vicious1KeymasterJanuary 3, 2016 at 8:28 amPost count: 2639
Here is one of the logos, http://www.vicious1.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/vectorlogo1-no-drips.zip, you can get the others in the shop for free.
I start my cuts at the surface, and finish above the surface. See the attached
Using the LCD is the same as a computer. I prefer the computer, it is faster to change settings.
Attachments:3dTIParticipantJanuary 4, 2016 at 2:42 amPost count: 70
That’s why I prefer the computer too. Maybe once I am more experienced I’ll play with the sd card option.
Thanks for the link to the logo. I’m off to some more dust 😉3dTIParticipantJanuary 4, 2016 at 4:52 amPost count: 70
Quick first engraving attempt (thanks for the logo Ryan)
Forgot to change the position of the origin, so I ran off the edge of the stock (rookie mistake) but I’m really happy with the movement of the machine, smooth and accurate. Not sure about the choice of cheap router v bit, but still waiting for my order of proper mills to turn up, so it’s all I had on hand that was suitable for engraving.
Feed rates of 1200m/min for x and y, approx 20000rpm (this is hard to judge as the speed dial is just numbered 0-4) and depth of 1mm. Please feel free to critique and offer advise. Sorry, no vid this time.
Justin.vicious1KeymasterJanuary 4, 2016 at 8:59 amPost count: 2639
First off, HELL YEAH! That is awesome!!!! I have been printing parts nonstop, and haven’t done any milling in a while.
I think it came out really well. I am not sure if those little errors in the cut are the software, my dxf, your bit or the machine, or cut speed. So many variables at this point! how far away is the top of the work surface from the bottom of the gantry?
I’m so jealous I want to do some milling! Thanks for doing the logo, it’s what I would have started with for sure.
Speaking of the logo….It is leftover from my younger days in the clothing biz. I do have a more “corporate” looking one. Should I switch?3dTIParticipantJanuary 4, 2016 at 3:10 pmPost count: 70
I was watching the machine closely to see if I could notice any rough/uneven movement and it seemed (by eye) to be butter smooth. I think I’ll try the same file again but reduce the feedrate to see if I can get a cleaner finish, and maybe generate some different versions of the g file to see if estlcam settings affect anything. I haven’t even started playing with settings or feedrates at all so I think still some scope for improvement. Not to mention the bit used was pretty cheap and nasty.
I’ll measure the height of the gantry relative to the work piece and let you know, rather than hazard a guess. Pretty close though. I have the legs set pretty short currently to minimise this distance.
As far as the logo goes, I like the current one. A bit cheeky/whimsical, and let’s be honest, what’s life without a little whimsy ;-). That being said from a professional/commercial standpoint the corporate one might be a better option. Personally I say to hell with conformity but, perhaps make both available for sample and put it to a community poll?3dTIParticipantJanuary 5, 2016 at 6:44 amPost count: 70
Height of gantry relative to work piece approx 100mm (measured from bottom of ‘middle’ assembly)
Also. Small issue I was hoping for some advise about.
I was playing around with the machine (just moving along axis at different speeds and testing travel limits) as I noticed the belts walking around on the bearings on the roller F’s. Depending on the position of the gantry the belts are trying to walk off the stepper pulleys (if that makes sense?). Only seems to be an issue on long travels. For small back and forth movements the belts tend to centralize.
I was thinking of installing a second panel washer (the big ones) on the inside of the bearing to act as a guide. Do you think this should work. What other solutions are there to the belts “walking” like this? I tried re-positioning the pulleys on the steppers but it didn’t really help.
Justin.vicious1KeymasterJanuary 5, 2016 at 9:49 amPost count: 2639
Your belts might be too tight, or the ends might be a little off axis. If you are using my stock ones with zip ties they should be pretty dead on any other tension system who knows. At the same time moving a little should not be an issue.3dTIParticipantJanuary 5, 2016 at 3:51 pmPost count: 70
All parts are stock IE at the moment. I looked again and it seems the bets are out of alignment at the ends (cable tie) I’ll redo the cable ties and try to achieve better alignment. It could well be excess tension on the belts too. I opted for the white PU belts with the steel reinforcing (zero stretch) and they require a lot more tension than the rubber/glass fiber belts. I’ll play around tonight and post back with any solutions I can come up with.
Thanks for the advise mate.
Justin.3dTIParticipantJanuary 7, 2016 at 5:16 amPost count: 70
Belt alignment was indeed the issue. Thanks for the pointer. I redid the zip ties and got the belts in the correct position and they run true now, no walking around.3dTIParticipantJanuary 7, 2016 at 6:23 amPost count: 70
Hi again. Quick update.
Couple of quick videos. First one is of my MPCNC decking a small waste board I setup to get the working plane closer to the gantry. Its now only about 70mm away.The cut is rather deep, approximately 2.5mm. Much deeper than I would normally attempt, but there were reasons (namely I stuffed up half way through a previous cut). The machine seemed to handle it quite well. No chatter and the finish was as consistent as my shallower cuts were. Bit was 1/2″ flat twin flute, feed rate was 1200mm/minute.
Second one is rather boring honestly, its the last portion of cutting out a test panel of the electronics enclosure I’m putting together. The final enclosure will be out of high quality 3mm ply. The test panels are just cheap mdf to check for fit and finish.
This is a quick render of the enclosure I’m halfway through designing. Haven’t settled on a design for the top, or finalized the interior layout yet. But this gives you a rough idea.
The finished piece after a quick clean up with an soft sanding block.
There is a 1.5mm * 1.5mm step at each end, so the walls lock together.
There was some inaccuracy in the slots. The machine seems to flex on vector changes (I’m thinking causes by the weight of the Makita Router) so for my final cuts in the ply I’ll decrease my feed rates to maybe 800mm/minute or even 600mm/minute?. Question for the more experienced users out there. Are there any acceleration/deceleration settings that I could tweak as well?
Over all though, I quite happy with how the machine is performing. Looking forward to spending some more time learning and experimenting.
Justin.karltinslyParticipantJanuary 7, 2016 at 6:33 amPost count: 279
Neat design for the ramps box. What bit did you use for cutting the pieces?
The second video is set to private.vicious1KeymasterJanuary 7, 2016 at 9:22 amPost count: 2639
Try out the beta firmware, I adjusted the accelerations. http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/need-some-beta-testers-for-some-new-firmware-stock-machines-only-please/3dTIParticipantJanuary 7, 2016 at 3:21 pmPost count: 70
Design is not set in stone, just V1.0 so to speak. Further refinements to follow
The bit was just a simple twin flute 1/8″ routing bit. Seemed to do a reasonable job.
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