upgrading to 525

This topic contains 29 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of mcmasterp mcmasterp 5 months, 2 weeks ago.

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  • #14963
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    I love my mpcnc but the slop in the middle parts limits what I can do. I like the sound of the rigidity increase of the 525. I have the original better middle z parts.

    My question. I’m confused as to which parts I need to print to replace my middle and z pieces. Can you put together an upgrade zip? Do you plan on selling a middle upgrade kit maybe?

    Many thanks as always

    #14967
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    To do the upgrade you would need all the center parts and the z parts, and now the rollers are done and released (also a rigidity bump). So at this point the full upgrade would be everything but the corners and feet.

    What are the dimensions of your machine, what spindle are you using, and what kinds of things are you finding difficult to do?

    #14968
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    Thanks for the info. I haven’t noticed flex in the rollers but I’ll check now that’s for sure.

    My machine is 4ftx3ft with cut size about 3ftx2ft. My spindle is a 300w spindle meant for cnc. Mostly it will deflect around by several mm if you wiggle it by the bit. In any material it effects the exact sizes and shapes produced

    #14969
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    How tall is your Zaxis and leg length? That has the biggest effect on rigidity. If you are having issues I suspect your z axis is very tall. Most non comercial cnc machines have about 3″ of z travel. Before any upgrades were ever made I was still able to mill aluminum with a flex shaft dremel, shown in the first few vids I put up. You shouldn’t need to upgrade but it does help you cut faster.

    The roller motor mounts have the biggest rigidity improvement, not the actual rollers.

    #14972
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    Hmm yup I have a tall z. The idea was in case I wanted to but a thick workpiece in it. Though I kept the legs regular proportion and had planned to make longer ones at some point. Guess I need to lop off some height. Still may print upgrade parts if they’ll make it more ridged and square

    #14973
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    You know, actually, I may be too stupid to know which files are needed for new middle and z. I was just looking at the files on thingiverse and there’s so many. Any chance of helping a guy out and rounding them up in a zip file? I know it should be obvious I’m sure but I can’t even yet visualize the new middle

    #14974
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    What ever makes it most useful for you. Usually you can just slow down your cuts or go a shallower depth of cut.
    If I remember my civ classes correctly it’s linear, so each halving of the z length doubles the rigidity. The legs have an effect but the higher up you cut with the z axis the better.

    #14975
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    For which conduit size?

    #14976
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    3/4″ conduit.

    I keep my legs shirt so the z height is all above really. Here’s pick of my setup and I’ll try to attach video of the wiggle in the tool. Keep in mind that the tool is mounted very ridged

    #14977
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster
    #14978
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant
    #14979
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    Thank you so much for zip. Your the best. I hope I don’t give impression that my mpcnc isn’t awesome and do amazing things cause it does. I am building Bartop arcade for my father using it to cuT wood and acrylic and laser vinyl decals.

    #14981
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    No I understand I just want them to work as good as possible.

    I watched probably an hour worth of arcade vids this morning, I have always wanted to make one just never went for it.

    #14982
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    Yeah it’s been fun. I started with files from thingiverse of course. Rpi3 mdf and monitor lying around so rest was not so costly. I recommend recalbox over retropie. Check out fake coin door I 3d printed. Lights, reset button, and power switch hooked to pi in addition to an ir diode for remote when in kodi. The tiny 25c is vinyl cut with mpcnc

    #14987
    Profile photo of Matt saeger
    Matt saeger
    Participant

    The cabinet looks nice. If the files for the cabinet are on thingiverse can you post a link.

    Oh and your picture showing the deflection is not working.

    #14993
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    Of course. Here look to arcade
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:852420

    And coin door
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:426031

    Also you are saying you can’t see the video labeled wiggle? But you can see setup pic?

    #14995
    Profile photo of Matt saeger
    Matt saeger
    Participant

    Yes the wiggle one says permission denied but the other one works.

    #14997
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    Thanks for the heads up. It should work now

    #15021
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    I was looking at the flex in the motor mounts and I’m shocked i never notice it before. Looks like I’ll have to print whole new roller parts now too lol.

    A few questions if I may:

    is the hardware interchangeable with the 525 or will I need any more or different bolts etc?

    What’s the difference between roller and rollerm? they look identical.

    what does the rollerplate do exactly?

    Thanks as always

    #15022
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    To upgrade you will need a 5″ bolt and 4×2.5″ bolts That should be it.

    RollerM is mirrored to get rid of printing inconsistencies that were causing some people issues and making there gantry’s crooked. You will see the gantry cradle cut is opposite (and the letter is backwards).

    The roller plate take the place of the skate washers, fender washers, and gives a good place to cable tie wires to.

    #15025
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    OK that all makes sense. So then I should print rollerm instead of roller correct?

    #15026
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    2 of each

    Parts

    #15027
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    OK yes I did see that and wasn’t sure if you meant 2 of whichever you choose. It makes sense, one for either end of the axis conduit so they mirror.

    #15028
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    exactly

    #15059
    Profile photo of Ian Johnson
    Ian Johnson
    Participant

    FYI, you shouldn’t cut vinyl (PVC) with a laser because it creates chlorine gas which is bad for you and the equipment. You can get polyester stickers which are fine. There is a good selection of laser and inkjet printable polyester here – Papilio

    #15064
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    Yes you are very correct. I use a very aggressive exhaust system to make it safe. I recommend others not risk it unless you know what your doing.

    #15176
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    just an update.

    I have to solve my 3d printers slanting prints issue before I can print the new parts ( it’s an i3 variant scaled by 50% to give 300mmx300mm. the heated bed is pita) so I figured I’d looking into the deflection I’m seeing. I noticed an incredible amount of flex around the legs as well as fairly loose belts. tightened the belts and added gussets to the two front corners which basically eliminated leg based deflection. I’m also considering some sort of shim and bolt down method for the motors to avoid reprinting the rollers (unless they’re superior in some other crucial way?). Maybe I can fashion a bracket that attaches to the back of stepper (hmmm. do mine have threaded holes on the back???) and then screws to the roller. I considered getting hose clamps and just cutting/ drilling them to mount over the motor and onto the roller but that’s uglier, maybe less effective, and less printed of course.

    I’m gonna attach a few images of the gussets and also one of the piece of acrylic I cut for my bartop arcade project. it is edge lit, its called the murphcade because it’s an arcade for my father “Murph”. if they dont work I’ll gdrive them

    #15547
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    More updates.

    I printed all the middle and z parts and successfully swapped them in. They seem really nice and sturdy so I have high hopes. assembly was easy following the directions.

    I fell asleep with my phone lastnight and apparently ordered the 660 free same day shipping so it arrived today around 9am much to my confusion. But I had already printed the mount for it just in case and I was gonna have to design a 52mm mount for my spindle so I went with it. Holy crap the difference from a 300w spindle is amazing. it’s considerably more powerful, no extra run out, yes a bit louder but it just sings harmony with the shopvac lol. I expect to see much more precise cuts and likely faster too!

    I am lazy and avoiding the roller replacement so instead of that I just zip tied the stepper down to the roller from around the conduit. seems like a solution at best a vast improvement at worst. Also I had to cut my stepper wires on two sides to replace the middle so I am glad I had the mounts with solderless screw downs since it was easy to re assemble.

    I still have issues related to stepper stalling and acting up. I will be spliting up the drivers as I said before to give them a break. Though the description for the drivers say there is thermal protection and voltage protection but they should light up a smd led on the drivers. I haven’t seen that but I’m at a loss as to what else to do.

    #15550
    Profile photo of Matt saeger
    Matt saeger
    Participant

    I fell asleep with my phone lastnight and apparently ordered the 660 free same day shipping so it arrived today around 9am much to my confusion. But I had already printed the mount for it just in case and I was gonna have to design a 52mm mount for my spindle so I went with it. Holy crap the difference from a 300w spindle is amazing. itโ€™s considerably more powerful, no extra run out, yes a bit louder but it just sings harmony with the shopvac lol. I expect to see much more precise cuts and likely faster too!

    Whatever you need to tell your wife ๐Ÿ™‚

    I like that dust collector it looks like much less to drag around than one of those shoes. Our 4 year old would probably be sad if I put that on there now I just let all the dust pile up and he likes to suck it off after the cuts are done.

    #15551
    Profile photo of mcmasterp
    mcmasterp
    Participant

    Haha yeah she gave me the eye but then I found my laptop with the checkout page order unplaced still there.

    The dust collector is on thingiverse. It had a 52mm spindle mount but I just zip tie the vacation tube anyway. The vacation line goes to a diy conical dust collector, then of course to a shop vacation, t hence the vacation output is fed outside with the help of an line boost fan for good measure. I cut vinyl with it so exhaust is important. Really it just gets the dust or smoke then I go back and suck up the bits and such

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