Abs build

This topic contains 13 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of johan johan 6 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
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  • #17041
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    Already busy printing a 25,4 J version for a while.
    Had some wrong parts because of a small problem with the files but nothing major.
    The reason i chose the 1 inch version is because i have a whole lot of 1 inch stainless tubing.
    Parts are also showing up slowly.
    Got some really nice but cheap 4.8kg nema 17 steppers.
    Planing to use th mpcnc for balsa milling with a dremel and for PLA printing of bigger objects.

    I am planning to start building somewhere next week.

    #17045
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    More pics.
    Fits perfectly and without any play.

    Printer settings.
    Extruder 240 degrees.
    Bed temp 100 degrees.
    1.75mm hobbyking abs fillament.
    40mm/s printspeed.
    0.2mm layer.
    0.4mm nozzle.
    Glas bed with abs juice and the printer is sitting inside a enclosure.

    #17056
    Profile photo of ualdayan
    ualdayan
    Participant

    In my experience ABS parts really do hold up better.

    Although – I did just break my glass bed the day before yesterday – no glue, no hairspray, no adhesive of any kind, open air printer, E3D BigBox – just plain ABS on a clean glass bed – and it FUSED itself to my glass bed. Took out a big chunk of the glass (which is now permanently embedded in the still usable MPCNC part), and made a big crack across the glass. Never seen PLA stick that hard. Probably didn’t help that ambient room temperature has been varying between 90-97, and probably even hotter near printer because of the heat a 3D printer puts out.

    #17058
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    The ambient temp inside my enclosure is between 50 and 60 degrees Celsius.
    Really need that when printing ABS to overcome any warping, also need to preheat the glass bed for at least 30 minutes before starting the print.
    When done printing the part just pops loose when its slowly cooling down.

    Regarding the printer temperature, here I am printing the Nutlock but no normal pic but FLIR (Cat s60 phone).

    Printing the last roller now, about 3 hours left.
    XYZ, XY, pineapple coupler and a couple other small bits and I should be ready to start building.

    #17061
    Profile photo of Jason
    Jason
    Participant

    How do you heat your chamber?

    Do you have pics of the chamber?

    #17062
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    The printer heats up the chamber in the half an hour pre heating.
    I have a 60x60mm fan running 5 volt sucking out the fumes through a old vacuumhose out of the window.
    I am planning on using a arduino to control the fan so the temperature gets a bit more stable.

    Box is made out of 12mm MDF and 55x55x55 cm inside measurement.
    Filament holder sits on top of the box.
    Still need to cut out the holes for the acrylic, have been printing to much and no time to do it 😉

    #17069
    Profile photo of Jason
    Jason
    Participant

    Very nice.
    No issues with the motors over heating on long prints I assume… I think its time I do that for mine… Can cut the box on my MPCNC lol

    #17070
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    The extruder motor does get a little warm but nothing extreme.
    The malyan drivers haven’t got pots to set it and it is set very conservative.

    My last roller I am still printing is probably failed, I can see a crack on the webcam image.
    Can’t open the door because on higher prints the abs is most certainly going to crack and warp.
    Hoping it’s only a small one and its still fixable with some acetone.

    Been researching how to set the driver voltage, shouldn’t be to big of a problem I guess.
    Also trying to figure out what software to use for milling, have used aspire and mach3 before but if I’m correct I can’t use mach3 with ramps.

    #17103
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    Is this gap going to pose a problem?
    Top part is printed as J (correct) bottom as F (wrong but fits) and middle part as F (wrong but fits)

    Roller fits great, rolls smooth but hard to turn the roller around the pipe.

    #17109
    Profile photo of John
    John
    Participant

    I doubt the gap is a problem. Just make sure you can hook up the timing chain to it…

    #17234
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    Another 11 hour print done.
    Can’t believe how good the pineapple coupler grips the stepper shaft, I was very sceptical but there was no need for that.

    Still to print:
    2x XY
    2x XYZ
    2X nuttrap
    Hicwic Mount
    Design and print a E3D extruder mount
    Build it

    Should be about 30 hours of printing.

    #17554
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    Printing the second XY now, had to do a bit of mainainence to my printer.
    I am hoping to start building somewhere next week.
    Still need to print both XYZ’s and the hicwic mount.
    Mount for the dremel is done and fits like a glove.

    Still waiting on the ramps, pulley’s, PSU and extruder.

    #17725
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    Finally done printing, took a while but I do have a good result.
    No warpage, perfect fit around the tubes, bolt holes where aligned like it should.
    If it’s not to hot tomorrow I will cut the conduit and get some wood for the table.
    Also need a couple of bolts I don’t have in stock.

    #17770
    Profile photo of johan
    johan
    Participant

    I’ve got 2 of these inductive sensors and was thinking of using them as homing sensor for the X and Y axes.
    Are they suitable?
    http://www.pepperl-fuchs.nl/netherlands/nl/classid_143.htm?view=productdetails&prodid=3214

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