Aluminum plates on pool table build.

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Aluminum plates on pool table build.

This topic contains 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Robert M. Meffe Robert M. Meffe 5 months ago.

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  • #28112
    Profile photo of Robert M. Meffe
    Robert M. Meffe
    Participant

    6061-T6 “.25 CNC Aluminum plates with brushed finish – Been waiting for what seems like months/years for them to be finished. (12 days)

    Had to post a picture before I lose track of time fully assembling my LowRider.

    Photos:
    Google Image Gallery

    Table: ~54″x~120″

    For the table base I am using a pool table that came with the house (Old 70’s but still slate). Perfectly leveled when I place my 8′ level on it.

    I cut 3 sheets of OSB sheeting for the top of the pool table to start my torsion box. I cheated and bought MDF 1″x4″x12′ (.6″x.3.5″x121″) primed molding. I then have 1″x3.5″x12′ common boards to cut for the fill.

    Once I assembly everything I will post my final BOM with prices and the break points (Any discount for bulk buys). Vicious if I send you my BOM first can you generate your affiliate links for any of the places I bought from?

    Once this is done I am going to start trying to cut kitchen cabinets; as you can see the in photos we are pretty much gutting the house down to studs.

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    #28114
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Aluminum is sexy!

    I think the only affiliate links I have are for amazon, and banggood. I hope to have these dang kits up really soon.

    #28258
    Profile photo of Robert M. Meffe
    Robert M. Meffe
    Participant

    I ran into two snags so far.

    The Z_RollerLR and the YZ_Roller are really tight and I had to sand down/ file them down a little to get them into the aluminium plates. I am not sure if this has something to do with miscalculating my top/bottom layers or if the CNC was off enough to make them not want to fit. All the other holes line up perfectly.

    Max height I could print at was ~.35mm – .4mm and still keep the bearing spacers use-able. I tried printing at 1 mm but only the spacers / knobs really worked at that height. It took 3 days to complete all the parts, I got a new hot end (MOARStruder) and glass bed (Mini) that took two of my printers out for a day.

    My huge ordering mistake; my wheels 🙂 I didn’t like Red or White and I wanted black. So I bought 59mm long board wheels. The lower wheels needed no modification. However the top wheels had to be cut to avoid running into YZ_Roller. I printed a JIG last night and it takes maybe 5 mins to cut the wheel down using a hand miter saw and jig saw. I will post the JIG with my final BOM.

    Forgot the T16 idlers and they will be delivered today. That should give me some time to draw and print my case for my RAMPS + Raspberry PI. I need to find away to mount my 360 watt power supply. Also need to plan out end stops.

    Hopefully I will have video tonight or tomorrow of it running. My test cuts are going to be another Lowrider. I want to see how the Aluminium does vs wood plates. I also have an idea for a store-able table for Lowrider for people that don’t have the room to have a full 5’x10′ or 4’x8′ machine all the time.

    Should have my table plans posted this afternoon. I will release the cut list and design fully under creative commons. I tried to limit the tools you need to a circular saw, drill (drill bits & #2 Phillips), hammer, cheap aluminum guide and a screw driver. I am going to use a Brad Nailer on most of my inner boards for sake of speed but no reason someone else couldn’t just use a hammer and nails or screws.

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