Another Stamp (walk through)

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This topic contains 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 9 months, 2 weeks ago.

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  • #15198

    Ryan
    Keymaster

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    I made another stamp….a fancy over complicated stamp, kinda.

    Just a brief walk through on how I did it. This might explain why I don’t use endstops very often, If you are removing the work piece or flipping it they just make things harder on projects like this where no one will care if the cuts are off by a little bit.

    My basic estlcam settings.

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    This starts with the EstlCAM carve function, if you need sharp corners this is how you do it. You can see my tool settings and speeds, don’t mind the rotational speed. If you notice I dip the tip of a 45 degree V-Bit to mark my zero position, and I have drawn a line on the spoil board to mark my where the board is positioned along the x axis.

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    After the carve is done, just spray the cut getting in all the nooks and crannies.

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    When the paint was dry I took an orbital sander and sanded off the excess paint and things are looking pretty good at this point.

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    Now I aligned the wood with the line I drew in the beginning along the X, the Y position doesn’t really matter. Switch out the bit to a wood end mill, reset the arduino zero’s. I position the bit of the dot from the first step and lower the z axis until it just touches. Complete accuracy is not important to me on this Stamp, quick, dirty, fun. Load up the new gCode and hit go.

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    Cut out with tabs holding it in place.

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    I took off the dewalt, an put the laser back on. I ran the focusing script a few times on the surface of the wood. When I was happy with the focus I lifted it up the thickness of the craft foam. I want the focus to be sharp on the surface to keep the profile true, and don’t really care about anything past that. When it is ready to go I load up the new gcode from inkscape and the jtechphotonics plug in. Made sure to mirror my dxf, I had to export it from solidworks as an AutoCAD r14 dxf for it to work but you can see it caused some weird paths and didn’t do continuous lines. I’ll look into that on the next project. You can see my 2.8W laser settings in the pic. I turned the laser on for a second to align it with the corner (my zero), again precision doesn’t really matter on this one.

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    As soon as it finishes I start to weed out the foam I don’t want before the super 77 starts to dry completely and doesn’t let it go. You don’t need to get it all off the wood, just get most of it.

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    Boom! Quick hand sand to knock down the edges, then, Done. Stamp everything you own so you don’t forget its yours, and stamp any box you ship so everyone in the world gets to see the nice stamp that took all this hard work!

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    Video—-

    Questions, comments, concerns?

    #15244

    3dTI
    Participant

    Nice walk through. It’s always exciting to see some functional parts produced with the MPCNC.

    #22560

    JYount
    Participant

    You mentioned a focusing script for the laser, do you have any information on how you set that up?

    #22561

    Ryan
    Keymaster

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