- June 18, 2017 at 6:24 pm #36261
I have been doing a bunch of test cuts messing around will all kinds of settings and have been progressively pushing it. This went well so I whipped out the Cam real quick and grabbed a video.
Single Flute Upcut 1/8″ end mill.
9.53mm Depth Of cut (1/2 of 3/4″).
10mm/s feed rate, 3.5mm/s plunge (can be faster)
0.4mm finish allowance
Estlcam Peel pocketing strategy
DW660 full speed
The cut went well you can just hear it starting to chatter but look at the shavings, real nice.
Getting ready for some overlap joints for a picture frame. I want to try all the cuts at once on the LowRider on a 8’x3.5″x3/4″ piece of pine so I was dialing in the settings on the MPCNC.
So have I been babying this thing the whole time or did I just get lucky?June 18, 2017 at 7:14 pm #36267
Nom nom nom. Those chips look great, like a planer.June 18, 2017 at 7:26 pm #36268
Looks like Parmesan cheese. The hum of these dw660s really has me eager to do some cuts myselfJune 19, 2017 at 2:57 am #36272
Hmm, wonder if the dual flute bits have been screwing us? How well does the single work in plywood?June 19, 2017 at 7:43 am #36280
Wouldn’t a dual flute be able to go 2x faster, theoretically?June 19, 2017 at 8:33 am #36285
So I tested that. I am no pro and have not done any recent research on this. I just wanted to get dirty so I just tried a bunch of stuff. I started by leveling the spindle as best as I could get it, I was at about a 1/16″ left to right, level from to back with my perpendicularity tester.
I believe the router needs to spin twice as fast with the single flute to get at the same material. The shavings seem to get cut finer this leads me to believe they are getting cut at least twice, meaning they are not getting thrown out of the hole fast enough, before the second blade come around and hits them again. Meaning you can cut faster but not double because you are recutting material (adding strain, adding heat, crappier cut). So maybe if you had compressed air helping the two flute it would be a good option. I figured most don’t use a speed control so I was just looking for some basic settings to advise people on that are new to the fold. I think I will advise 10mm/s single flute adjust the depth depending on your material.
The first two cuts were half that depth 15mm/s and I ran it with both bits. The two flute ran with my speed control at minimum and it was still a bit too fast and I was getting dust, with the single flute I did have to turn up the speed to almost half but the waste was nice and flakey.
The edge on that is gorgeous, even ever minimal surface splintering with an upcut bit. The pics at the end we’re seriously on wiped off with my finger, not sand paper.
And all of this was on What I think is the average build size machine, and it has been around forever so I think these should be obtainable results for most.
This was fun, I think I need to use the same bit, rpm, and machine and do a few other materials to get some sort of table on cut depth. Maybe bring down the unknowns a bit for the newcomers. Like, If I can cut this at 9.53mm you should easily be able to do 7mm, or something, it gives max depth at least. I don’t know just tryin to make this a little less mysterious for us all.June 19, 2017 at 8:36 am #36286
With all that said, I do think estlcam is super polished now. The peel pocketing strategy is freaking awesome and the finish tolerance is super easy to use now, literally half the steps it used to take to make really good tools paths.
With Tricoidal, peel, drill, and carve what more do you need?
Pretty sure most of that awesome cut was do to the better CAM.June 19, 2017 at 9:18 am #36289The single flute ran with my speed control at minimum and it was still a bit too fast and I was getting dust, with the single flute I did have to turn up the speed to almost half but the waste was nice and flakey.
Should that be double, then single?This was fun, I think I need to use the same bit, rpm, and machine and do a few other materials to get some sort of table on cut depth. Maybe bring down the unknowns a bit for the newcomers.
That would be great. I think that question comes up more often than most, and the answer is almost always, “That depends”. It would be nice to have a starting point. It might also be nice to have a reference for problems with the machine, like if you can’t cut a 1/2″ OSB board at ZYX settings, then there’s something wrong with the machine, and well-squared machines can handle XYZ settings. Would some reference gcodes be useful in the table too, just to take out the CAM issues people will likely have when trying this? I think everyone can afford throwing in a 6″x6″ piece of OSB or pine to test that out. I don’t know what you were making, but everyone can use some big handles for 3/16″ nuts. The material doesn’t have to be exactly what everyone can use, but hardboard acts differently than pine and pine acts differently than knots in pine. I sure liked carving with OSB, and it’s really cheap.Pretty sure most of that awesome cut was do to the better CAM.
I guess I need to spend more time in the CAM. I want to make parmesan cheese too.June 19, 2017 at 9:32 am #36292
Yeah I guess the table needs to include things like that, if there are knots, you are on your own, reduce DOC dramatically.
Another good one is what the chips should resemble. Burnt is all bad, dust is kinda okay, larger particles are prefered.
It is so hard, If I ever give a number or DOC or anything I will forever get called out on it. I get so many emails of people trying to prove me wrong with my own quotes from 2 years ago, but if I delete them they call me out on that as well. So if I say to use a number, if people can’t get that number I get personal emails about it. I have to all day tell people to use the forums so the info is useful to everyone.
The more info I give the more time I spend troubleshooting with people to achieve whatever numbers I say.
There is always the guy with a 3’x3’x10″ build asking how fast he can mill aluminum and it absolutely needs to be that big any smaller and it is a waste of money.
I think I just talked myself out of a chart.June 19, 2017 at 4:59 pm #36349
I think a community set up chart or guide would be a great way to get more info and even help improve ideas and designs. I have a Tevo Black Widow and the community build and set up guide created and maintained by the Facebook group is incredible. All this info compiled by the users due to the poor documentation from the manufacturer (who copied from the community guide to redo their own build manual). It’s in depth and covers basic build and set ups, mods and troubleshooting. Here is a link to it, check it out.
http://www.jupacreations.com/tevobwcg/JupaCreations_bwcg.pdfJune 19, 2017 at 5:21 pm #36352
That is one hell of a build guide, almost 200 pages but it does cover everything, even proper connectors.
I kind of think a chart only works with a video attached. These machines are extremely variable, size XYZ, rails diameter, rail material, as well the bits, the material, the cam strategy. So a (pine=x speed, y depth, z rpm will never work). Maybe a list of videos or detailed specs. We tried this in a forum thread only a few of us ever posted there. So I put all the details in my vids I think is the best I can do, other than make more vids. That reminds me, I should post it there.June 19, 2017 at 6:40 pm #36357
They really did an outstanding job putting that together. When I joined the group it was under 50 pages or so.
I think the charts with a video are a good idea. With the variables in things like computers or 3d printers and even the MPCNC a set of loose guidelines to help dial the tool in is always a great starting point over the “Hold my beer” approach… as fun as that is sometimes destroying things can get frustrating and expensive. While I understand where your coming from on the people taking guidelines as an exact blueprint to follow to the T, I would bet most of the quiet people toiling away at their projects will understand “guidelines” to get you started VS “Hard and fast rules” that would be so hard to come buy with open source projects.
I am happy to post my results good and bad to help out once I am up and running.June 19, 2017 at 6:53 pm #36360
That is kind of the hope with the gallery. Hopefully someone sees a similar project to there own and can look through the link and see more info on how it was made.June 26, 2017 at 12:41 pm #36835
How do you adjust perpendicular z axis? If browsed the forum looking for answers. I know mine is a bit off as when I cut a circle in ccw direction, it always chatters and or jumps at about the 5 o’clock position.June 26, 2017 at 12:46 pm #36836
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