Australian Build

This topic contains 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of thehoffau thehoffau 5 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #26784
    Profile photo of thehoffau
    thehoffau
    Participant

    Hey Guys.

    I am about to start printing parts for my CNC and need advice.

    I am located in Australia and just want to make sure that I print the right parts and where/what to source.

    Goal:
    * Standard Size
    * Aluminum cuts (2-3mm) (looking to cut brackets for my 3d printers)

    Looking to print in PLA/ABS.

    As we are talking AU.
    * What spinlde options do I have? Aliexpress?
    * Metal/pipe sizes and options are a bit confusing

    advice appreciated.

    Daniel

    #26797

    Hi,

    Your questions are not very specific so it is a bit hard to answer them.
    For spindles you have various options. Most people use small portative routers (it’s what I use too). They are ok but quite noisy and I’m not sure they are powerful enough to do aluminum milling at reasonable speeds.
    If you just want to do a few brackets, it may be ok though (I haven’t tried aluminum yet, but I will in a few weeks).

    If you plan to often do aluminum milling, I think the only reliable way would be to invest in a brushless spindle motor, minimum 1KW, ideally 1.5KW. They are much more powerful and also a lot quieter. But they are expensive and necessitate specific power supplies.

    About metal pipes, if you want rigidity (which will be mandatory if you plan on doing aluminum), the the bigger the better.
    My CNC uses chromoly reinforced tubes that are used as guiding rails in the industry. It is a bit overkill but super duper rigid. It will also greatly depend on the dimensions of your machine. For rigidity, the smaller your machine will be, the less issues you’ll have about rigidity.

    #26798
    Profile photo of cave
    cave
    Participant

    Hi
    – Easiest tubing to find is the galvanised steel tubing at Bunnings, or the chrome rail (curtain rail). They are different diameters; the gal is 25.4mm and works well with the “J” set of 3D printed parts. The galvanised is a thicker wall and will require scaling of the “nut trap” piece on the Z axis to fit; can’t remember what I scaled it to. I think the wall thickness on mine was 1.6mm (but check yours).
    – Go for a short Z axis. Design it short from the start.
    – I scaled my PLA prints to 1.016x and they were perfectly dimensioned, but the bolts were a bit tight (I thought they were meant to self-tap into the part; but they are meant to slide freely). Do a couple of small test prints to get the scaling right. Consider Imperial hardware (you’ll be eBaying it anyway, unless you get a whole kit from Ryan – which might make sense as the shipping fees don’t increase with a bigger order). If you use metric, you might need to drill out the bolt holes.
    – The reason the bolts need to move freely is the plastic parts are designed to flex slightly to be adjustable and square up the machine.
    – I tried a Dremel and quickly moved to a Makita trim router (700 series) – brilliant, it’s a beast – BUT doesn’t come with a 1/8″ collet. You can get a 3rd-party one delivered from US but ends up being $30-50 for a little bit of metal. Keep this in mind. You might be better off with a “proper” spindle if you have to buy one anyway; I wanted the router, and didn’t realise the collet would be an issue; you can get 1/4″ shank router spiral bits but they’re $21 to $35 at places like Carbatec or Timbecon and are not available from most hardware shops. You can’t use a straight router bit because you can’t do plunge cuts with those.
    – What fails on routers used continuously (like in a CNC) is apparently the bearings, rather than the motor. Apparently Bosch has no rated on / off time; which means that if you burn one out, they replace it, because they haven’t specified a duty cycle! (advice from the guys at Carbatec).
    – Don’t forget spoil board / clamping. If you’re eBaying router bits etc maybe get a T-slot cutting bit too.
    – Dust collection. Lots of wood chips! Worse with aluminium?????

    #26835
    Profile photo of thehoffau
    thehoffau
    Participant

    Thanks Cave,

    Thats basically what I was after initially.

    1. Run the J build at 25.4 BUT know there may be modification for internal dimensions on pipe from bunnings.
    2. Makita router + collet needed.
    3. Short Z Access, dont, not looking to make this anything but cutting and engraving 3mm acrylic and aluminum.
    4. PLA Scaling, thanks for the heads up on the 1.016. Ill start there.
    5. Bosch.. so moving to a bosch router?
    6. Dirt, Dust and other.
    6.a. Vacuum and attachment, check. This is going to be needed! Head mount?
    6.b. Ive seen somewhere a bed/base with holes for a vacuum?
    6.c. Looking at actually printing a second set of mounts to build a second frame around the outside of the actual CNC. A little like a coreXY box… using coreflute on 4 sides and then a sheet of acrylic as the roof to seal it up. It wont be air tight but clean seal it to the bench to keep all the rubbish inside a space.

Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.