Canuck MP3DP

This topic contains 99 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 week, 5 days ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 61 through 90 (of 100 total)
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  • #40796

    Ralph
    Participant

    Just noticed that I have something weird going on when printing a P38 wing piece from 3dLabs. The CG (center of gravity) letters on wing surface has ghosting on that section of the wing (see first pic). Could this be a belt rubbing on the x axis? The rest of the wing surface as well as the internal rib structure looks good to me.

    IMG_1076

    #40802

    Barry
    Participant

    Nope, that’s called ringing.  It happens when you’re printing too fast.  Usually not a big deal.  It happens because the print head is “swinging” from the small quick axis changes.

    #42739

    Ralph
    Participant

    My P-38……

    image

    #42745

    That is so cool I love flying drones but I think this will be so much better!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #42750

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    DAM that is nice looking. Keeping it as a trophy or do you actually plane on risking it to the sky?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #42751

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Very nice.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #42758

    Barry
    Participant

    Needs a little Wonder Woman for the cockpit!

    #42786

    Ralph
    Participant
    DAM that is nice looking. Keeping it as a trophy or do you actually plane on risking it to the sky?

    Nah, it’s going in to sky……..PLA is cheap and the electronics/hardware will be salvageable after the first maiden crash! 🙂  I just need to speed up printing or build another MP3DP cause this took a loooong time to print

    p38Crash2

    Attachments:
    #42789

    Ralph
    Participant
    Needs a little Wonder Woman for the cockpit!

    anyone have the gcode or stl for one?

    #42792

    Jeffeb3
    Participant
    the electronics/hardware will be salvageable after the first maiden crash

    If you can find the invisible plane…

    #42793

    Ralph
    Participant
    the electronics/hardware will be salvageable after the first maiden crash

    If you can find the invisible plane…

    i’ll just look for the smoke

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #42805

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Too Funny.

    Now I really can’t wait to see that thing fully outfitted!

    #44483

    Ralph
    Participant

    Help! So I’ve been printing almost every day since late July with my MP3DP with no issues other than fine tuning (which has not been done for at least the last month) and now I’m having under extrusion issues. I was 4 hours into a 6 hour print and the extruder stepper started to click and skip steps (I’m using the Titan Aero ).  I done the following and still am having problem.

    1. Check for clogged or partially clogged HE. I don’t think it clogged but I change the nozzle anyways. I can manually push filemant though with no issues.
    2. Disassembled the entire Aero unit thinking it might be an issue with gears and all looks fine.  Reassembled twice to make sure and am still getting the same results…prints fine for a while (well past an hour) and then under extrusion start to appear…the stepper starts to click is missing steps. Note that the gears are not slipping its the stepper that is skipping.
    3. Checked the driver, it’s not hot and the VREF is correct (0.63 for my stepper).
    4. Swapped out the driver with another one and same results.
    5. Changed to a different filament….same issues.
    6.  Checked wires and all looks fine.

    The symptom that occurs every time since the issue started is…..it starts fine from a cold start (i.e. the extruders is cold and goes through the pre-heat cycle), the print starts and then sometime into the print the stepper starts to skip/miss steps.

    I’ve order a new stepper and driver which should be here by end of day, that’s my next step.

     

    Anyone have any Ideas? Here is the first print that the issue showed up on…looks perfect up until the stepper start to skip.

    IMG_1102
    IMG_1100

    #44488

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    What filament, what temps, what speed?

    Is the heat sink fan running?

    Is the extruder stepper hot after at an hour or so of printing?

    To me it looks  like you have a temperature issue, since you don’t have a clog, any of the above questions can cause it.

    #44489

    Ralph
    Participant
    What filament, what temps, what speed? Is the heat sink fan running? Is the extruder stepper hot after at an hour or so of printing? To me it looks like you have a temperature issue, since you don’t have a clog, any of the above questions can cause it.

    Sorry should have mentioned that as well…

    1. PLA
    2. Speed is 40 outer perimeters 60% (been printing for a while at this speed)
    3. I’ve been printing at 210C. The temperature is constant, no runaways. Checked that the heater and thermister are secure.
    4. Stepper and drivers are not hot at all. I have two cooling fans in my case.
    5. Heat sink Fan is running constantly and sounds fine.
    6. No cooling fan running for this print as specified by the designer of the STLs.
    #44490

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    My best guess. Since you are running the PLA at really high temps (Usually 195-200) and your print is mostly outer perimeters and you have the speed low (outers are usually 90-95%) you are getting heat creep up the pla itself that will bulge and stick in the throat.

    Try lowering the extruder temp 5° and increasing the outer speeds to at least 85% if not 90-95%.

    #44492

    Ralph
    Participant
    My best guess. Since you are running the PLA at really high temps (Usually 195-200) and your print is mostly outer perimeters and you have the speed low (outers are usually 90-95%) you are getting heat creep up the pla itself that will bulge and stick in the throat. Try lowering the extruder temp 5° and increasing the outer speeds to at least 85% if not 90-95%.

    I will give it a try,later tonight….what i don’t understand is why now. I printed the p-38 with high temps (recommend by the designer for better adhesion…actually he recommends 230 for PLA which i know is ridiculously  high). I’m printing the Cessna now and it fails after printing about 70 percent of the plane parts.

    #44493

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Maybe the room the printer is in is just a tad warmer. Slightly different batch of PLA, or something very minor like that. All metal hot ends are trickier with PLA I think the speed is your issue, 24mm/s is really slow for that long. Get that up to about 30 and you should be fine.

    #48636

    Ralph
    Participant

    It’s been  two months since I followed up (work got in the way), but I think I’ve solved the problem with Titan extrusion issue posted in  this thread on September 22, 2017 at 12:59 pm. I tried all of Ryan’s suggestions (thanks Ryan) but I still had the same issue. After a work induced interruption I finally got back to trouble shooting. Upon close inspection I noticed a slight bend in the heat break, so I ordered another stock one as well as a Titanium one (dam expensive) for the titan. I was going to just replace the bent heat break with the stock one, but at the last minute I decided to use the titanium one. Into my second print now ( 4 hours and no problem with no missing steps or clicking extruder motor).

    So my question is now, would a slightly bent heat break be the actual cause of the issue? Has anyone run across this before?

    Thanks

    #48641

    As Ryan said, your problem is very likely to be the heat build up in your nozzle.

    I had this problem before, it seems to arrive randomly when you print PLA at high temperatures (in my case I was printing at 220 Degree C). It occurs whenever you have either a long travel distance, or a lot of small travels in a short amount of time. Heat builds up more and more, and then the plastic melts too high inside the nozzle, until it flows out and blocks everything.

    That’s why I’ve built a water cooling system on my machine. I made a more complete explanation on this phenomenon here if you want to see: https://www.instructables.com/id/Water-Cool-Your-3D-Printer-Nozzle-the-Cheap-and-Ea/

    Maybe changing your heat break ended up helping a bit, but I think you may still have this issue if you keep on printing at high temperature without beefing up your cooling system. The easy way would be to put a more powerful fan on your heat sink, it is cheap and very simple to do. But it will make more noise.

    #48650

    Ralph
    Participant
    As Ryan said, your problem is very likely to be the heat build up in your nozzle. I had this problem before, it seems to arrive randomly when you print PLA at high temperatures (in my case I was printing at 220 Degree C). It occurs whenever you have either a long travel distance, or a lot of small travels in a short amount of time. Heat builds up more and more, and then the plastic melts too high inside the nozzle, until it flows out and blocks everything. That’s why I’ve built a water cooling system on my machine. I made a more complete explanation on this phenomenon here if you want to see: https://www.instructables.com/id/Water-Cool-Your-3D-Printer-Nozzle-the-Cheap-and-Ea/ Maybe changing your heat break ended up helping a bit, but I think you may still have this issue if you keep on printing at high temperature without beefing up your cooling system. The easy way would be to put a more powerful fan on your heat sink, it is cheap and very simple to do. But it will make more noise.

    While  trying resolve the issue when I first encountered it I tried lower temps (down to 195 by increments of 5) on the 3D benchie and still had problems after the first few layers as well as speeding up the print speed. Anyway I’ll see if I can beef up the heat sync fan, but it seems to be keeping the heat sync cool to the touch.

    I don’t Think  water cooling is an option in the Titan aero due to the design on the heat sync.

     

    #48664

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Can you post some pictures of the extruder, maybe something has been over looked.

    #48759

    Ralph
    Participant
    #48764

    Ralph
    Participant
    #48770

    Ralph
    Participant

    One more set pic. And I’m back at step one as the issue is back. The first three prints came out perfect and the it started again on the forth one about 4.5 hours in the print. One thing I noticed after the missing steps/skipping started again is that I can barely manually extrude using the large gear with my finger, so it appears that the assembly has rotated on the extruder mount causing it to bind. This symptom is the same has before replacing the heartbreak.

    #48778

    Ralph
    Participant

    Continued….when I assembled the extruder all the bolts we’re tight except for the one that goes through the gear ( top right) as per the instructions.

    #48780

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I’ve never used a titan aero, but I’m pretty sure you need to have some filament in it.

    :rimshot:

    #48783

    Ralph
    Participant
    I’ve never used a titan aero, but I’m pretty sure you need to have some filament in it. :rimshot:

    LOL

    #48784

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Okay the assembly looks pretty good. I can’t say thank you enough for putting up all those pics, most tend to put up one or two pics that don’t really show anything. You put up enough for me to look at all the things I wanted to see!

    What size nozzle is on there?

    The touch and fan mount are bothering me a bit you are blocking a substantial amount of cooling airflow on the heatsink, on both sides. Any way you can do a test without them on?

    OHHHH, wait a minute. How large is your retraction? This is a big one, The retraction should be really small, like as small as possible on a all metal hotend. I don’t get stringing and use <1mm. Any more and you are asking for this very issue.

    In summary if you retract 1mm or less and still get the issue I think blocking the cooling fins is the issue.

    #48786

    Ralph
    Participant

    Retraction is 0.8 mm…..have been using that for that longest time.   As for the touch and fan, I guess I can try without them…i have to disassemble it anyways to realign the extruder so it can move freely again. Another thing I’ve noticed is when the heat sync fan is on there is quit a bit of (at least if feels like quit a bit) of air flow being reversed back to the front of the fan blades (if you know what I mean…..if you but your palm in front of the fan you feel airflow….and I’ve double checked the polarity of the fan…it is turning the right way).

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