- November 30, 2016 at 9:58 am #21848
Check these out:
(I’ll just attach the .zip). These 50 joints are hard to view, because of the goofy navigatable pdf (I’m in Linux, so the links don’t work because someone wasn’t careful with their Caps Key… grumble grumble). But there are dxf’s for all the different joint patterns, and they are broken down into categories for joining panels, frames, and extending frames. Someone with some time and scraps could make a neat display of the different joints. It would be nice to have that kind of time, eh?
I found it from this make page, which also has some examples:
Also links to:
This one has some neat examples. Just getting ready for those full sheet crawlers. 🙂
Attachments:November 30, 2016 at 10:46 am #21858
I need a new page for this kind of stuff. I need an intern…November 30, 2016 at 10:54 am #21860
Just be careful of the hidden costs of interns:
– Engineering interns usually get paid.
– They often don’t know anything, so they need training.
– Bagels on Thursdays
– Sexual harassment training.
The list goes on…November 30, 2016 at 1:12 pm #21906
Anyone know how to effectively integrate these into CAD designs? Particularly the 3D hidden joints and such. This is *the* reason I’m building my MPCNC.. Yet I still have no idea what to do with this in terms of software, save perhaps recreating it in OpenSCAD.November 30, 2016 at 1:37 pm #21907
Oops, I only attached the 4 examples. You really want the big zip.
Once you have the right zip, unzip it, then find the .DXF file for the joint you want, you can either:
– Use something like libreCAD (my personal favorite for 2D CAD) or OnShape to import the dxf, and move the parts around on your larger design. This is the C_001_2.DXF file opened in libreCAD:
– Load it straight into your CAM software, like EstlCAM, and just make the CAM software make only the joinery, save that tool path, and then have the CNC cut just the joint. You’ll have some work to do to make sure everything is lined up, and you will want the tool paths to only do the joint, not cut the piece out completely. This is that same file with the tool paths layed out in EstlCAM.
You can see on the left part that what I’m doing is just cutting the edge out. Since I don’t want it to cut the entire part out, I couldn’t just use the “Outside” tool, I had to actually do engraving, and click the points around on the trail I wanted to cut. Now that I look at it, I should probably have made the two shoulder cuts as well. The benefit of doing it like this is that you can just attach a 10 foot board, and just make the joint on the end. There are a lot of gotchas though, because you have to worry about:
– Getting the width of the joint the same as the width of the board. (and scaling the hole with the key the same way, so that they mate when you are done).
– Getting the joint in the right place on the board
– Getting the board perfectly parallel to the x axis (in this case, you might need to be aligned with something else in some other case. (Use the CNC to help you here, you can have it cut some holes for dowels in a perfectly straight line along the x axis, or have it carve the edge of a “fence” board.)
– Getting the origin of the toolpath in the right place when you start cutting.
– I would do this by moving the “Zero” in EstlCAM to a place on the joint, like the bottom of the board, on the shoulder cut.
– Move the machine’s head to be touching the material, directly above where that “Zero” should be.
– Reset the zero position of the machine (by selecting the option with the LCD, or power cycling it).
Either way, this won’t be a 5 minute deal. You’ll have to learn some tools and understand their issues. It’s doable, but this is really a case of “what works for you”, not a “here’s a step by step”.
If nothing else, if you want to start working in something like openscad, then you can just design the joints yourself, using these as inspiration. I _think_ openscad can support reading in DXF files. I know it can output them.November 30, 2016 at 1:40 pm #21908
Here is the big zip.
Ungh, too big… Oh well, here is a link to the zip in it’s original home:
http://download.flexiblestream.de/Digital_Wood_Joints_Complete.zipNovember 30, 2016 at 9:02 pm #21940
You’d think if they are already in college they wouldn’t have to get trained for sexual harassment, didn’t they learn that in high school?December 3, 2016 at 5:50 pm #22007
Not bad for a first try. Hard part is getting the cut to line up with the end of the wood!!December 5, 2016 at 11:18 am #22108
Nice work Barry.
What did you think? It looks like the joint is a bit loose? Does it feel strong?December 5, 2016 at 4:30 pm #22124
I wonder if maybe you need to have one side offset slightly to account for the width of the bit? Maybe make the “male” piece a little oversized so it takes a bit of pressure and even some sanding to fit in place? Overall I think it still looks like a nice wood joint, even with a bit of extra space.December 5, 2016 at 8:04 pm #22137
I think I might slow down the feed rate a bit. I think the bit is pulling into the wood because it’s moving faster than it cuts, but just a theory.December 5, 2016 at 8:43 pm #22140
Agreed. It does look nice. Try doing that with a chisel!January 13, 2017 at 7:29 pm #24933
W0w this is awesome thank you for sharing!May 30, 2017 at 9:39 am #34721
I found a place where someone made most of the joints. Helps with the visualization, I think:May 30, 2017 at 9:55 am #34724
I love seeing them like that.
I am making a new bed frame / headboard by hand (no cnc). If the system works out good I might make a few more with some cnc joints. In particular the headboard.
I love the joints but a few that require fasteners would be cool as well, The dogbone overcut ones are not appealing to me, but the puzzle fit and stairstep ones are first on my list to try.May 30, 2017 at 10:23 am #34727
My couch has rectangular armrests. So I’m going to make a table that sits on it. I’ve been trying to decide which of these joints I’m going to add in there, purely as decorative elements. There are so many choices.May 30, 2017 at 10:33 am #34729
Exactly, some logo shaped joints or anything crazy like that. I was putting serious effort into my headboard parts exact sizes very carefully with angles, etc. Cnc routing would have made it way better. Now I know for sure and need to make something super cool on the CNC for my headboard not out of a single plank.May 30, 2017 at 10:35 am #34730
I haven’t done this either, but the other thing you could do is cut out a template with the CNC, and then use a pattern bit on the router to quickly carve it one any gigantic object, like a headboard.
I feel like you’ve been talking about this bed for a while. You really need to finish it so you can get some rest.May 30, 2017 at 11:14 am #34736May 30, 2017 at 12:21 pm #34744I only get an hour or so at a time.
I know the feeling. That’s why it took me two months to finish my Low Rider.
Looking good. I really hate finishing. I have an unfinished picture frame I made right after I bought my first table saw. It’s been hanging above my fireplace for all 8 years or so since we bought this house.
The last project I did, I used wipe on poly, and it was pretty good, but pretty expensive, and it did take like 9 coats. But it didn’t require a ton of sanding, or being careful when I applied it. Any time I can get away with a less tolerant finish, I use linseed oil, because three easy coats, and it looks good enough to hang up.May 30, 2017 at 12:29 pm #34751
Yes! The finishing is pissing me off. I much prefer the oils. That is why I have not finished the other cut pieces I am trying to decide if I should switch to tung oil or something I enjoy working with. I wanted the color but I don’t think it is worth the effort. That means remaking the headboard, with the cnc this time, kind of a bonus really.May 30, 2017 at 1:25 pm #34756
Next time I need something to be water proofish, I’m going to make my own wipe on poly. That way it won’t be expensive, and the 9 coats kind of sucks, but if I can be liberal with it, and not worry about bubbles or anything, then I can just do one or two coats per day, and spend like 15 minutes on it.
I have a project that I finished a while ago on my MPCNC, and I haven’t shared it yet, because I’m entering it in a plans contest. That’s the one I used wipe on poly for. I just submitted the entry.May 30, 2017 at 1:29 pm #34759
Interesting! Good Luck, and I can’t wait to see it.May 30, 2017 at 3:30 pm #34775
Bookmarked. This is a great resource. It’ll come in very handy.May 30, 2017 at 3:54 pm #34776
I usually just put clear poly in my hvlp sprayer.May 30, 2017 at 4:16 pm #34781
I miss having the ability to spray. Hopefully I can get a real shop soon.May 30, 2017 at 6:15 pm #34782
Wayne A HogueParticipantExactly, some logo shaped joints or anything crazy like that. I was putting serious effort into my headboard parts exact sizes very carefully with angles, etc. Cnc routing would have made it way better.
Too bad you don’t have a neighbor or buddy with a CNC
1 user thanked author for this post.May 30, 2017 at 7:00 pm #34785I usually just put clear poly in my hvlp sprayer.
IIRC, you make a real mess with that sprayer. 🙂
Are the cheap ones worth it? I was thinking about getting one. HF has a cheap one. I have a decent pancake compressor, but it’s high pressure low volume…May 31, 2017 at 3:53 am #34804
Have this one. So far I’ve put a few gallons of paint through it. I also have an older model, both work really well, but this one can spray undiluted latex. Though I still dilute it a little, too much orange peel texture otherwise. I’ve put about a gallon of poly through it too.May 31, 2017 at 6:45 am #34812
David WallingParticipantI usually just put clear poly in my hvlp sprayer.
IIRC, you make a real mess with that sprayer. ?
Are the cheap ones worth it? I was thinking about getting one. HF has a cheap one. I have a decent pancake compressor, but it’s high pressure low volume…
Mine is a cheap one. It might not lay the smoothest finish, but I haven’t noticed anything horrible with it. Be sure and get a good regulator. I use two. One of the big ones on the compressor itself, then one of the small ones on the air line right by the gun.
My airbrush on the other hand…. spent way too much money on that thing.
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