- February 8, 2017 at 8:21 pm #26991
Is the conduit being .2mm off enough to cause a problem? My joints are a little loose (layer of tape under the clamps tightened them up) and there is some play in my gantry/middle assembly because not all the bearings are making contact at once.
Don’t know how it cuts yet, waiting on motors to show up.
I did the 23.5 build 30″ x 30″, mix of PLA and ABS. Three different sticks of 3/4 conduit all the same 23.26-23.37 OD.February 8, 2017 at 8:59 pm #26995
Are they ovals? Just rotate until they feel tight enough.February 8, 2017 at 11:28 pm #27000
Dui, ni shuo de duiParticipant
I had the same issue for my 25mm CNC.
It is most likely to be a 3D printer issue (not well calibrated).
what you can do is to use a heat gun to soften the plastic, then close it a little bit more by hand.
That’s how I did it, it worked out fine.
An other way I used too, for the middle rails, was to put heat shrink all around the 25mm tubes. I was afraid the heat shrink would be damaged very fast because of the bearing rolling on them, but I’ve used the CNC for more than 10 hours and I don’t have much sign of wear, so it seems fine.
If you don’t feel confident in any of those techniques, then the only right way would be to calibrate your printer properly, then re print everything.
You really don’t want to have any play in your CNC, it will mess up everything and you’ll end up having poor quality jobs.
Another suggestion: use only PLA for the structure, it is stiffer and less prone to warp. Avoid mixing materials since they don’t have the same properties, at least for the important structural parts.February 9, 2017 at 7:01 am #27029
Disregard, I am a moron, for some reason I also downloaded the 25.4 plans and managed to mistakenly print some of those pieces… we will just call those 20 hours of test prints… dumbFebruary 9, 2017 at 10:01 pm #27108
i printed the 25.4 also, the local lumber stores emt did not measure out the only thing close was 3/4 inch galvanize pipe, which measured about 26.67 mm after i made a jig to sand it to a silvery stainless looking all the fittings were tight, i used a heat gun to make things fit, the center section had a twist in it i heated the parts till i got a perfect fit, every thing runs smooth, i couldnt get the ramps 1.4 working, i had an arduino with a cnc shield and after loading grbl, it ran perfect with easel, estlcam and universal gcode sender, then after burning the board on my alunar 3d printer i got the ramps 1.4 working, i was at the wrong baud rate, i used that on my 3d printer till the new anet board arrives, so i then put the ramps 1.4 board back on the mpcnc and with repetier i was able to go thru a mock 3d print. so what i am saying is those parts you printed can be used to make another machine, i myself plan to make a few of these machines, a very good design and with the 3/4 pipe it is so strong i stood on it and it held my 200lbs no problem
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