- October 1, 2016 at 9:22 am #18823
9″ square mirror engraving with the Winnipeg Jets logo.
Turned out better then I expected. Mirror is looking at the stipple on my ceiling if your wondering why it looks bubbly.
Attachments:October 1, 2016 at 11:34 am #18826
What are you engraving with?October 1, 2016 at 11:40 am #18827
3 watt laser.October 1, 2016 at 3:45 pm #18840
Cool. So you’re burning the back side?October 1, 2016 at 6:11 pm #18845
Yes on the back side and the image mirrored horizontally.October 2, 2016 at 9:10 am #18866
Here is another… I really like how this one turned out.
Attachments:October 2, 2016 at 9:36 am #18878
Wow, looks like a cool way to make a little pocket money right there. Next time you make one could you share your settings, I think I need to give this a try.October 2, 2016 at 10:41 am #18885
I used image2gcode
speed 4000 mm/min
added start code for setting acceleration up to 1000 for x yOctober 2, 2016 at 11:54 am #18888
That SOA mirror looks great. Miss that show…October 2, 2016 at 2:19 pm #18889
@leo69 can you explain a bit how that optimized raster works for skipping white space…
If I understand I think that if I put 75% in to threshold number it should ignore everything under 75% power?October 2, 2016 at 5:23 pm #18890
I never really used the threshold setting but I think you understand it correctly. Allows you to filter out gray levels.October 2, 2016 at 5:25 pm #18891
I can confirm that is not how it works… I tried 75% and 0 neither produced the proper result.October 2, 2016 at 5:46 pm #18892
I didn’t code that feature so I’m not familiar with it. I tried it once but I got better results by doing a full rsster engraving. The problem for me was that my acceleration settings were high for the pixel by pixel engraving so every time there was white space in image machine would speed up too fast and when it got past the white space there would be dark areas where the deceleration took place.
I don’t rush raster engravings. If something needs to be done quickly them I’ll convert to a line drawing and use dxf2gcode instead.October 2, 2016 at 5:48 pm #18893
Yes I am learning fast that they are best done slow with high acceleration for best quality.October 6, 2016 at 7:47 am #19033
Here is the most recent one of the machine in honour of the Jays making the post season.
XY Accel 1000
Attachments:October 7, 2016 at 5:56 am #19095
So this question is to any who may be doing mirrors…
I was watching some YouTube videos about engraving mirrors and it seems they burn all the “mirror stuff” right off. Mine seems to leave a semi transparent sparkly sandpaper looking texture after the engrave.
Now is this the laser just doesnt have to juice to get it all off or do I need to slow it down. I have been running at 1800 mm/min. And I bumped the Current on my laser from 1.7 (as per @leo69 awesome instructions) to 2.0 since the DTR website show my laser can handle about 2.5 or 2.6A. That seemed to maybe make a small difference but hard to tell visually.
One type of mirror from Rona (the ones in the pictures) engrave pretty good. But I bought 12″ x 12″ mirrors from IKEA and the do not engrave nearly as good. The backing on the IKEA mirrors is a lighter shade of gray. Could that be the difference? They are really cheap mirrors (the IKEA ones)so I would be surprised if the coating is thicker.
Just looking for ideas that I may not have thought of… Really starting to contemplate a 60 – 100 watt CO2 addition. I am loving this laser stuff lol
Edit: Wonder if the G2 lens would be worth the money for the increased power.October 11, 2016 at 5:08 am #19250
Under the advisement from Jordan at DTR I bought the G2 lens. Gonna give that a shot.
He also mentioned that these cheap Chinese “laser drivers” are actually LED drivers are no good for the lasers and suggested buying a real driver.October 11, 2016 at 6:31 am #19255
The G2 lens is more efficient but I’ve read that it produces a slightly larger spot size so you may sacrifice some detail in your engravings, probably not enough to notice. Laser and LED drivers are both constant current drivers but I’m guessing a higher quality driver may have less ripple. I’ve hooked mine up to my scope and didn’t see lots of ripple but there are multiple iterations of this board on the market so I can’t say they’re all equal. I’ve been using mine for about two years and it’s working fine for me. If you really want more power then I’d suggest a driver from eBay seller x-wossee and maybe the nubm44 laser diode from dtr. That’s a 6 watt beast. That combo will be about twice as powerful as what you’re using now. If mirrors are you’re main projects then find some with a darker backing. The darkness of the material has a HUGE effect on power requirements. Light reflective materials will always be harder to burn.October 11, 2016 at 6:40 am #19258
Gonna try the lens first see what happens. I read to spray the back of the mirror with flat black paint and that should solve my issue.
My next upgrade will be to a 80-100 watt CO2 laser if anything.October 11, 2016 at 7:17 am #19259
Laser paint ablation is the method I use for PCB etching but be advised that it produces some pretty toxic fumes. I wouldn’t burn paint without proper ventilation for sure.October 11, 2016 at 7:21 am #19260
Oh I know… It stinks like hell… I have 600 cu ft/min extraction fan running during engraving… the room is only about 120 sqft so it does a pretty good job pulling the fumes out… The first time I did it I didnt have the fun and the return air duct was wide open, the whole house smelled awful.October 20, 2016 at 6:32 am #19748
So far my experience with the G2 lens is… It has basically solved my quality and penetration issues. The spot size difference is not big enough to make a difference. But is noticeably more powerful.
Made the mirrors in the attached image over the last couple days with the new lens.
Attachments:October 20, 2016 at 9:10 am #19763
Those look great ! Thanks for posting your findings.I think you’ve convinced me to make the investment:-)October 20, 2016 at 9:12 am #19764
Also under the advice from the dude from DTR I upped my current to 2 amps from the 1.7 amps that was mentioned in the setup tutorial.October 20, 2016 at 9:20 am #19766
Shouldn’t be an issue with active cooling but hard to say for sure unless you have a thermocouple on it to monitor diode temps. Once they get past threshold, degradation sets in much quicker. I run mine at 1.85 and have lots of miles on it. Most of the hardcore laser enthusiasts run very nice heatsink and cooling setups that allow them to push diodes toward their limits.I’m a little more conservative.October 20, 2016 at 9:22 am #19767
The x-wossee drivers are really nice because they have thermistor input which allows safety shutoff if temps are exceeded.let’s you run on the bleeding edgeOctober 20, 2016 at 9:23 am #19768
I am running vicious1’s laser holder that he has on thingiverse, with a slightly higher then normal cfm fan blowing down thru the holder. I also have the heatsink you mentioned in your tutorial. I probably have maybe 150 hours on my laser so far.October 20, 2016 at 9:24 am #19771
i have been thinking about getting one of x-wossee’s drivers off ebay. I do not think it has a themistor input though.October 20, 2016 at 9:25 am #19772
Your final product has come a long way.very nice workOctober 20, 2016 at 9:26 am #19773
Thanks… I am interested to see if it now properly pentrates these other 12 inch mirrors that were not working as nice as i had hoped. I will post pics when I get to those.
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