- May 19, 2017 at 7:26 am #34023
I printed my first part yesterday. So impressed with the system and support. I printed another Z-motor for starters because mine is cracked along with the Z-Lower. It didn’t crack during assembly but must have been stressed and split sometime during first moves. Glue is holding them together while I get the replacements made.
I checked conduit fit on the new part along with the spacing on the mount holes and everything looks good but I did note that the perimeters have a very regular wavy appearance. Looking through other posts where this came up some possible causes mentioned were belt tension, overall looseness, and Repetier. I am not going to jump in to improve this until the other Z part is printed and I go through a break-in period but would appreciate some advice on what to try first. There was also mention of a 100-mm calibration print. Is there a file for that or is it just anything 100-mm in dimension?
Everything was bought through Vicious1 except the extruder driver and I followed all the site setup instructions for settings.
One other item, I am running everything directly from my computer (which seems to work fine) because I get an error from the LCD “KILLED. PRINTER HALTED Please reset”
I attached pictures of the error, first print, and video of a portion of the actual print.
Attachments:May 19, 2017 at 7:34 am #34025
Sorry, the screen error didn’t seem to load.
Attachments:May 19, 2017 at 7:45 am #34028
Hmmmmn, the part looks about right in the dimensions, but seems very over extruded. Double check the slicer settings. Did you set the current on the extruder driver (about .7V)?
As for the error, that usually happens when you try and move the Z axis too fast. Make sure you have it at 8.4mm/s or under.May 19, 2017 at 8:17 am #34029
I may be able to help here as that looks pretty much identical to my setup. Same everything it seems like. I can’t help but notice you print pretty fast. The default is 50% speed first layer which in the video looks already fast. If it is at 100% never mind but generally I had success at about 35mm/s and under. Any faster and you can tell the machine starts to get sloppy. Your conduit might need sanding. My prints got smoother within a few weeks of the bearings smoothing the zinc. Still though, that is pretty normal. I think the mpcnc as more of a robust sizable cnc machine then an agile smooth 3d printer.May 22, 2017 at 8:28 am #34155
I set the voltage on my non-Vicious extruder driver during assembly and checked it again to be sure. It’s still at 0.69V. I did have a setting wrong in Slic3r; the modifier for 1st layer speed was set to 35mm/s rather than 35%. I changed it but it didn’t seem to have any effect. Attached are a picture of the second print edge and both the first and second print (on bottom). Thia really isn’t an issue as the dimensions all look good. I intend to just have some fun – print things for the kids, a rack for my filament, Smart Controller case,…Hopefully, as it breaks in this will be resolved. That said, any quick tips would be appreciated.
Attachments:May 22, 2017 at 8:36 am #34158
It is sooooo close. The pics are just out of focus enough to not really be able to tell what is going on. But the little “c” embedded in the print is coming out pretty good and the dimensions are correct but is still seems like you are getting too much coming out. I know you are looking at the edge but the top layer tells a more complete picture. The edge could be bumpy from over extrusion, not centered drive gear, too high extruder temp, bumpy rails, filament pulling on it too hard. The top is very clearly showing extreme over extrusion.
What layer height and speeds are you using?
I would say try .24mm-.26mm layer height and 30mm/s for your fastest print speed. Make sure your extruder is mounted in there real snug as well.May 22, 2017 at 8:05 pm #34213
I saw similar results when I first tried printing with Ziro black PLA. Turns out the black was slightly larger in diameter than the nominal 1.75mm and the black pigment seemed to also want a bit lower extruder temperature. I dropped my temp by 10C and put a 0.9 multiplier in for the extruder.May 23, 2017 at 4:59 am #34235
I changed my layer height to 0.24 mm from the original 0.27 mm and post-slice verified my highest print speed was F1800. I also checked that the extruder was firmly mounted before giving it another shot – it was. While printing, however, I noticed that although my Z is perpendicular to the print surface, my extruder is not. I will reseat everything and see if that fixes it. I think I will mic the filament all the same (thanks, Bill). If the filament is oversized, for example, should I change that in the filament settings or the multiplier?
Attachments:May 23, 2017 at 9:42 am #34245
Best to change the filament setting. Unspool a few feet and measure it 3 or 4 times down the length. Then put the average in as the diameter.May 24, 2017 at 8:30 am #34277
I had a chance to mic my filament over a few feet. It checked 0.0695″ on average which amounts to less than a 2% difference to the nominal cross-sectional area. I am guessing that’s not the issue. Would the orientation of the extruder be a more likely cause? I am having difficulty squaring the extruder in the mount assembly. It seems the mount strap has a little interference with the stepper plug. I hope to rework the strap to get a square fit and do a small test print. If that doesn’t solve it, reduce the multiplier to 0.9. If that doesn’t solve it, reduce the extruder temp 10 degrees. Let me know if I am missing something and thanks for all the help.May 25, 2017 at 6:28 am #34339
I ran another test print last night, a 20 mm cube. I updated the filament size to the slightly larger diameter and modified the mount strap which squared up the extruder nicely. I reduced the first layer extruder temp to 200 degrees and the print temp to 190. I also printed the cube with a 0.20 mm layer height. There really wasn’t any improvement. The horizontal waviness is there on all sides along with a series of diagonal lines.
The outside X and Y dimensions checked good, 20.04 mm. The Z was short. You can see a little mushrooming at the bottom of the cube. I think my initial Z was a little too low, not just touching but applying pressure to the print surface. I did a scan of the surface at work for fun. The layer height alternates pretty regularly between 0.21 mm and 0.19 mm. The spacing of the horizontal waves averaged 1.13 mm but with some variation.
Next step, I will try changing the E value to 0.90
Attachments:May 25, 2017 at 6:44 am #34347
Dam, High tech toy alert!!!! Nice.
Well I can say the waves at the edges are acceleration based wobbles from taking the corner and oscillating, if you print slower or have a shorter z axis those will/should diminish. as for the other waves I think you either have a off center extruder gear or it is just sitting funny, maybe flip it over and reset the set screws. Black will always exaggerate issues as well.
Try a cylinder, or my favorite test print is the robox vase scaled down to 60% and printed as a spiral vase with 1 bottom layer. It has smooth curves, 1 hard corner and a slight overhang, it is a pretty good indication of all sorts of issues.May 25, 2017 at 7:41 am #34349
I am new to the 3d printing game so take my question to being a noob one, but are you running a part cooling fan?? I see fans on the heat sink for the extruder, but didnt notice an actual part cooling fan in the video. Again, total noob here, but have seen videos with some similar issues when they were not running a fan while printing PLA.May 25, 2017 at 9:16 am #34362
Thanks, I was looking around for something to put the printer through all its paces. I’ll try knocking down the speed and raise the print surface towards the gantry for the wobble and will flip and reset the gear.
As for the print fan, yes, I have one installed and settings match the setup screen. I’m green myself but it did seem strange that it turned on very briefly for the longer Z part prints but ran nearly continuously after the first layers for the much smaller cube. On or off the surface condition is very similar so I never considered it as an issue.May 25, 2017 at 10:35 am #34365
I want to say what I have typically seen in fan settings is low fan during the first layer and then it cranks up quite a bit for nearly the remainder of the print. I will see if I can find some settings to compare and confirm.May 25, 2017 at 10:37 am #34367
I do no fan for the first layer and 85% for the rest or in slic3r I use the auto fan at 85% for PLA.
1 user thanked author for this post.May 25, 2017 at 11:07 am #34374
What Ryan said sounds right. I’ll look at the Prusa edition version of Slic3r when I get home. Unless that is what Ryan is already using.May 25, 2017 at 6:00 pm #34392
I have been focused on improving my print quality and reviewed all my speed settings as part of that. My z-settings matched the recommended settings so I didn’t see the source for my lcd error from my first post. I have also been following another thread.
Are my connections right? The plugs are keyed so there really wasn’t another way to connect them.
Attachments:May 25, 2017 at 6:18 pm #34399
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.