Jeffeb3's Low Rider Build

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Jeffeb3's Low Rider Build

This topic contains 100 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Jeffeb3 Jeffeb3 1 month, 3 weeks ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 101 total)
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  • #24894
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant
    #24927
    Profile photo of Barry
    Barry
    Participant

    Sweet!

    #24963
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I don’t know how I missed this, but there are some useful details here:

    LowRider CNC

    I made a sketch of the torsion box I’m going to make, I sketched it out assuming 12″ extra on each length, so it will be a 9’x5′ table, @vicious1, is that close enough? I don’t want to be an inch short (I’m 5’11”, so I should be used to it by now).

    My sketch shows each table exactly 3′, but I might make one almost 4 and one just over 2, so that I can have it set up to cut more than 2′ with just the first table.

    You can probably see that I have a double wide beam in the middle at one spot, that’s because I’m probably going to use more than one sheet to cover it, or else that will use/waste a lot of material. Plus, the smaller pieces are just easier to manage. The 2x wide beam gives me more surface to staple to.

    You can also probably see the big holes in the bottom, and you probably can’t see where I made holes for the bolts, and the dowels. My plan to get two tables to “mate” is to but those frame pieces together (with screws, or hot glue) and drill bolt holes and dowel holes through both pieces at once. Then I will glue dowels into one piece, which should help me get the two pieces basically aligned, then I will attach bolts, with my hands/tools going through the big holes in the bottom to get the bolts tightened. I will do this while clamping something on the edge to make sure the top/bottom left/right aligned while I’m doing this. That should let me put it together, and store it in about a half hour, I hope. Hopefully more like 5 minutes, but a half hour is tolerable.

    I know there are also some “ears” that hold the belt, or something. I’m hoping I can use the same bolt/dowel system to also attach those, so I can make them attach to just the 4′ table, or the whole 9′ table.

    Overall, I could do this with some decent 1by material, but I’m going to use some of this 3/4″ plywood I have, and just rip all the fame pieces to 3″ wide on the table saw. Those should be super straight, and stiff. I also have a solid core door workbench in my shed, that I can use to assemble, so that hopefully each surface will be perfectly flat. With 2x 1/4″ skins, that should put me close to 3.5″, which should then let me attach a 1/2″ spoil board. I haven’t figure out what to do for clamps yet, which is really the big flaw so far, but maybe the spoil board can be 1/2″ plywood, and I can just clamp with screws, or attach some claps with screws. I could also try some kind of bolt system, similar to a T-track, but I doubt the 1/4″ skin will have much pressure before it deflects…

    #24965
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Don’t build it yet. I’ll try and get up a bed calculator up this evening.

    #24996
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    No rush, I still haven’t bought the tubes, and I just ordered the collet yesterday. I can handle just some numbers if the calculator is too much of a pain.

    I am going to rip a bunch of 3″ strips, but I’ll wait to cut them down. I need a good chunk of daytime to rip them, but I can do the crosscuts, drilling, and assembly at night.

    #25013
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I ripped enough frame pieces for at least the first big table. I had to rough cut a 4’x8′ sheet along the length with a circlar saw, and I cut them to ~9.5″, that would give me 3×3″ pieces, which I ripped on the table saw. One of them ended up curving, but it’s in the last 20″ or so, and I probably just wasn’t holding it to the fence tight enough or something, but it’s no big deal, because I can definitely get around 60″ from each board. I have another piece of scrap in the pile that is about 48×48, and I might use that for the 36″ parts instead, and just use these 6 pieces for the wide parts. I haven’t decided yet.

    #25489
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    @vicious1, is the calculator up somewhere, and I just didn’t see it?

    #25490
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Not yet, I have the lengths I used in the in the other thread.

    #25491
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I’m getting there. A new calculator soon.
    .065″ is better for this. the 2 long tubes and 4 short ones for the z.
    2×63″ish 4×11.5″ish

    #25493
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Thanks, I saw those the other day, I meant the calculator for the size of the bed, or some dimensions to use. I hope to get to assembling the first “box” over the weekend.

    #25718
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Thanks for posting that BOM. That will help me keep my head on straight.

    I ran out (or nearly out) of black, so I switched to white, still PLA. I haven’t tested PLA with my MP3DP yet.

    I have a bunch of parts that I haven’t photographed. They are looking pretty good, I’m basically going down the line, and I’m at the YMountLR, so about a year behind Barry :). Maybe if I actually printed stuff, instead of just breaking/fixing my printer over and over…

    I cut a 4’x4′ sheet of 3/4″ down to 3″ strips. I wanted to get all the frame parts for the table cut before I changed my table saw’s fence. So now I have enough frame material to make the whole thing.

    Are you planning on selling some of the LowRider parts before the beta testing is done? I think everything but the wheels, wheel spacers, and the GT16 idlers aren’t in your store, or in your amazon affiliate links.

    #25720
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    My goal today was to get a few more exploded pics up and do the calculator, but Now I’m emailing all my vendors to see if I can save money (lower the prices) by tripling my usual order.

    I think everything is in the store except the bolts and steppers, what have I forgotten to put up? The mpcnc wiring harness works except the single motor wire is about 1′ too short, if you route it along the vacuum hose Like I did. The new harness’ were supposed to ship before the China vacation but I guess it didn’t happen.

    #25721
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Oh, hah. I’m an idiot. I see them in the store.

    #25730
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Ordered.

    I just realized I named this thread “Jeffeb3’3” instead of “Jeffeb3’s”… I need a vacation.

    #25806
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Anyone want to make some vicious s’mores?

    #25808
    Profile photo of Barry
    Barry
    Participant

    @Jeff
    You need to use these for Vicious s’mores!
    Fireball

    #25811
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Those look great! Where is the .STL?

    #25812
    Profile photo of Barry
    Barry
    Participant

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:359843

    Might taste funny though….

    #25896
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Grumble Grumble…

    I printed all 4 of the ZMountLR pieces at once, and of course, halfway through, something fell off of the shelf above it, and made a skip in the y steps…

    Then I printed just 2 today, and I ran out of white PLA filament…

    So I’m basically out of PLA. (side note, the hatchbox on amazon is all messed up, like 2 month wait for normal colors, and $50 for some other colors, maybe chinese new year? I bought some more PLA from makergeeks, but it won’t be here soon).

    So, I’m going to try PETG in my MP3DP. Shouldn’t be a big issue, but I have some more tuning to do, and I’m low on time, so this is going to be a bit more of a delay. I just hope this ZMountLR doesn’t become the cursed part for me :/

    #25900
    Profile photo of helifriz
    helifriz
    Participant

    I feel your pain.For two days I had problems, blocked nozzles a blown PSU which in turn blew the fuse on my MKS board and then problems with the initial layer height. Then a day of this.
    https://goo.gl/photos/1SaxnY16CSeG4VxN7

    I only use PTEG I love it but sometime’s it just won’t stick.

    Attachments:
    #25913
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Ouch.

    I saw somewhere that you shouldn’t use less than 20-35% infill for PETG. FWIW. I printed mine in PLA, and at 10%, the infill wasn’t being consistent, either, but they seem pretty strong, and they look like marshmallows, so I’m OK with that.

    #25914
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I had to take off the extruder fan and heatsink since I literally ran out of filament, I had to work hard to get that last piece out. That, of course, messed up my carefully tuned height adjustments I made the other day, but I have it roughly working, and I’m pringing my first ZMountLR with black PETG, and it’s looking pretty good. Should I risk it and print the next three at the same time?

    #25918
    Profile photo of Barry
    Barry
    Participant

    You can print petg with 10% infill. My spacers are 10% infill. They have 3 perimeters, tops and bottoms though. The stronger parts are 4 perimeters, 50% infill.

    #25921
    Profile photo of Al Quentin
    Al Quentin
    Participant

    Regarding filament – If you can deal with issues some have with a smaller spool diameter, Dockwell filament from PC Rush is a good deal. Printed all my MPCNC parts with it. At $17.95/kilo with free shipping, it’s become my standard PLA filament. They have a “Buy 2 get 1 free” promo going on right now. Lot’s of colors and, unlike others I’ve used, the eight colors I’ve tried all print well at the same temp – 210°C on my Prusa i3 Rework variant, using an E3D-V6.

    – Al

    #25935
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I think pet will be fine for the lowrider, not 100% sure, but the tolerances are much different.

    Filament.
    I was actually thinking about it last week. Those amazon prices are insane. They are so bad I signed up with hatchbox and have been getting it direct since October I think, At a pretty insane price. I could sell it on the site but I can’t figure out any way to ship it cheaply. I might be able to sell it separately and ship it first class instead of priority. What price would be awesome for a roll of hatchbox (be reasonable)? I have about 55-60 rolls on hand right now.

    At the same Time I can drop ship directly to amazon and easily crush those guys, unless hatchbox tells me no…

    #25953
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I used to buy it for $25/kg, with prime. Yesterday I would have been willing to pay $30, but I would have just bought 2. I ended up buying some from maker geeks, so I’m good for now.

    #25960
    Profile photo of Derek P
    Derek P
    Participant

    The pricing model is strange. On the Amazon Canadian site I can get Hatchbox PLA for $32 CDN (about $25 US) but if I want silver it’s $110. I recently bought some Hatchbox black PLA for $44 and it was terrible, really badly wound on the roll. It all seems so hit and miss.

    #25963
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I started with HB, just because it was so readily available on amazon. I’ve had the most consistent results from it. I seem to have to adjust everything for the 3D solutions stuff, but who knows if that’s a problem with the filament, or the printer. I also don’t like the huge hole in the middle of the spool on the 3D solutions stuff.

    So much of filament reviews are a) subjective, and b) people blaming the filament when it’s completely due to printer issues, or temp issues, or tuning issues. There are people who print a lot (*ahem*, Ryan) who could care a lot more about it. Pretty much every time I print, I’m adjusting something, so I wouldn’t know if a problem I was having was the print, or something got loose, or something needs more tension, or a different temp, or the new filament. Or maybe that new slic3r setting works well for HB but not for MG…

    I also don’t know much about the amazon pricing model, but I think there are always “opportunistic sellers” that will buy a popular product, and show it for sale on amazon at 2x the price, then when the original is out of stock, the only option is the shark, for $50. So $50 is basically saying, “Out of stock”. Which is why I can still get bright pink, but not black.

    #25964
    Profile photo of Jason
    Jason
    Participant

    I did most of my MPCNC with MakerGeeks PETG, the rest with Atomic PETG. I’ve been really happy with the MG PETG and haven’t had any issues with it after going through most of half a dozen spools of it at this point.

    However MakerGeeks PLA has not been as good for me. I’ve had issues with it jamming in my e3d v6 (full all metal version not lite) and acting like it’s clogged when it’s not. I think I finally overcame those issues though by adding a bit of paper towel with a few drips of vegetable oil on it attached over the filament with a clothespin as it feeds into my extruder. Since I added that on MG PLA I haven’t had a single issue even on spools that were giving me absolute fits before.

    Still weirded out by the high temps MG suggests for their PLA as well…but it does seem to print well at those temps. And I’ve been doing their monthly geek box for $30 a month so my supply of their filament is building up pretty quickly. I’m probably going to have to stop the sub soon because I don’t go through two rolls a month and am running out of room to store it 😀

    #25977
    Profile photo of Barry
    Barry
    Participant

    I tried makergeeks petg. I liked it, but it’s expensive. I drive past a microcenter every couple weeks when I go to a client site, so I pick up their Inland brand when I get low. Not had any issues with it so far.

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