Milled/printed Prusa Style Printer

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC Milled/printed Prusa Style Printer

This topic contains 256 replies, has 37 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 6 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 91 through 120 (of 257 total)
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  • #15741

    Neil
    Participant

    Ryan,
    You are like me so many projects so little time. I was going to try and help you out and post in builds and things built as I build. I’ll be putting my larger order in for everything I still need for the 3d printer this week (I have parts printed, Mpcnc about to cut its first parts). If I get it all working I took Wednesday-Friday of off work to get some things done..
    Neil

    #15751

    John
    Participant

    Hooked up and moving well. Need help on the heated bed. You print in the aluminum side, right? Not the black side…

    Wiring was a bit of a challenge for an hour..

    Attachments:
    #15753

    John
    Participant

    Wiring is still a touch ugly..

    Attachments:
    #15756

    John
    Participant

    I also have no idea how you meant to hook up the timing belt. What I have works and looks reasonable, but doesn’t quite feel perfect… (Pics tomorrow)

    #15764

    Ryan
    Keymaster
    #15768

    John
    Participant

    That’s a bit easier than I thought.. I used a zip tie on the other end too as a just in case…

    How do you seal the thermoster into the heated bed?

    #15787

    Neil
    Participant

    hahaha, your killing me Ryan. I went to place my order for the parts today and you are out of the mk3 bed… dang it.. you think you will stock soon or should I look on ebay?
    Neil

    #15788

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Oh man so sorry, Moving is so much harder when there is a business coming along for the ride! I have been trying to keep up with everything but I didn’t do so well. I have placed the order but sadly I am just paying for it now. It usually takes about a week. I do have 1 of the beds I use here, the PCB style. I put cheap hardware store glass on top 8×8. Let me know if your interested we can work out the details.

    #15789

    Neil
    Participant

    I am in no hurry at all buddy. I was just giving you a hard time. No need to work a special order in for me bud. You do enough around here as is. I will wait patiently lol. Have a great week Ryan.
    Neil

    #15794

    John
    Participant

    Here are some notes on my build that may help:

    1) put bearings in all the pieces first. 1 bearing in each piece for the bed, 2 in all the rest except for the piece that holds the extruder which gets 3 (two on top, one on bottom).
    2) put the end stop screws and end stops onto the plastic pieces. pictures on the web site are adequate to see how that works.
    3) put bearings in the plastic pieces. pictures are adequate again.
    4) solder wires onto end stops
    5) assemble the frame (corners and motor blocks and gantry) – check for square
    6) put motor mounts and pulley for the bed on the frame.
    7) put the plastic piece that holds the timing chain on the bed. * make sure that it aligns with the motor and pulley pieces. *
    8) put the bearings on the bed.
    9) put the end pieces on one end of the rods for the bed.
    10) put the bed on the rods.
    11) other end pieces on those same rods.
    12) put on all the stepper motors
    13) put the bed on the frame. – check for square
    14) build the x axis. – this is the longest two rods into the plastic pieces and the carriage onto the rods. put the timing chain on at this point too. it will be easier. make sure the brass nuts are also put on at this point.
    15) put the top of the y axis rods on the frame if you didn’t already.
    16) put the x axis on the y axis rods. put the y axis rods into the mounts at the top of the gantry, slide them up and then down into the motor mounts at the bottom.
    17) slide the threaded rods down through the brass nuts and lock them into the steppers. check for square.
    18) bottom timing chain. – set the end stop screw lengths now. make sure that they touch at the appropriate points.
    19) route wires
    20) mount power supply and ramps
    21) mount extruder (and wire it if necessary)
    22) headed bed
    23) plug in wires
    24) power up and initial movement test. — home it.
    25) wire cleanup.

    for the thermistor in the bed I used a high temperature silicon gasket compound and let it dry overnight. do this in advance.
    I also wired in a power switch for the whole unit. I recommend doing this as well.

    since I have an MPCNC, I put two 8 pin DIN circular plugs on the extruder (one of the plugs for extruder power, the other plug for two fans and the thermistor) – this lets me move the extruder back and forth with minimal effort. I cut a wooden block and mounted the DIN’s into that and glued it to the frame next to where the ramps is mounted in order to facilitate easy transfer back and forth.

    the mk3 bed uses #4 screws and not #6. – get one inch ones.

    the wire bundle I have is pretty big. you MAY want to trim a long section of the stepper wires out if you don’t like large bundles. I don’t mind and I left them.

    I recommend using shrink tube on all connections when you solder them.
    I usually run mine through a raspberry pi using repetier server and if you do the same, you may need to flash the speed down to 128k baud from 250k.

    still to do is print off a box to hold the display
    and make a filament holder and a couple things to route it.

    hope this helps.

    #15805

    Neil
    Participant

    MDF cut like butter. What bit and travel settings would be used if cutting this frame out of HDPE? I am thinking about purchasing some 1/4″ HDPE and cutting the frame fro it. I know Ryan had good luck with it. I am just wondering what bit works best and what estlcam settings so I am not melting the material?

    MPCNC-Butter

    Neil

    #15818

    John
    Participant

    First print under way.

    Attachments:
    #15846

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Looks good, any constructive criticism? I know the y axis rod holders are a bit odd but most rods don’t seem to be cut well enough to fully enclose them.

    Now that this “minimal” printer is working well for me I want to make one that looks cool even if it costs a little more in parts or time. Tons of printers out there, going to be a challenge to come up with something a little different that functions well. I’m a nerd like that though.

    #15847

    Neil
    Participant

    All I know is I’m a vicious fan boy and if you design it I’m building it lol. The Mpcnc works so damn well. I’m buying the hdpe at lunch today.
    Neil

    #15848

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Oh sorry you asked about my setting for cutting that. Honestly I don’t remember, I desperately need to make another and have the material I will make a video. I did a ton of test cuts with all my bits, they all worked but I think the single flute up cut was best if I remember right.

    #15849

    Jason
    Participant

    What size of sheet is required at a minimum to cut all the parts from?

    #15852

    John
    Participant

    2ft by 4ft is more than enough. You might be able to squeeze it into 2×2, but at my local store its $6 for the big one and $4 for the small, so…

    #15853

    Neil
    Participant

    I’ll probably have spare hdpe if anyone wants to build a printer yet no access to a cnc.
    Neil

    #15854

    Drew Rogge
    Participant

    Hi Neil, What bit are you using for MDF? The normal 2 flute up cut?

    Drew

    #15855

    Neil
    Participant

    That’s the only bits I have it worked beautifully. I’ll see how they do on hdpe
    Neil

    #15856

    John
    Participant

    Hi Drew,
    I used a 2 flute up cut on the MDF.

    Then I used a aerosol acrylic spray to coat the pieces and make them hopefully last longer.

    Ryan,
    I had to do a bit of extra work to align the rods holding the bed. You might look at having two screws in the part so that it’s fixed in place instead of it being able to rotate around the one screw.

    the single steppers get pretty warm currently, so you may need to adjust the settings on your default drivers to be different. the z steppers are cool.

    Maybe a couple extra holes near the bottom and on the gantry to hold cable ties for wire routing. I’d have liked another hole down by the ramps board and one on the gantry.

    I’d add a power switch and maybe slide the power supply out just a hair to facilitate routing that power switch wire up to the top. alternately, look at putting the power supply an inch higher and the switch at the bottom.

    one of the holes for the brass nuts was slightly too large for the screw to get a real bite in it. (maybe just a printing defect). so I had to put a bit of glue in the hole. I believe it was on the motor side piece.

    raise the ramps board a half inch. some of the wires are tough to get in where it’s at. granted I mounted the ramps board and then wired it which is not quite optimal.

    the aluminum bed has tiny holes (#4) and that makes the nuts tiny as well. with that, the pre-drilled corners in the mdf bed are large enough that you have to use a washer. maybe just make them 1/8″ instead of whatever size they are. i’m pretty sure I marked them right in estlcam…

    instead of two holes in the center piece for the bed, use 3. I put it on and took it off 3 times because I had it upside down and backwards and … 3 offset holes would make it truly “one way”. now that I have it put together, it’s clear which way is correct, but it just wasn’t intuitive the first time through.

    include instructions for putting the thermistor in the aluminum bed. that took me a while to find.

    also, please describe (if you know) how to get PLA to stick to the aluminum bed. it doesn’t stick on the raw bed for me. But, if I put blue tape on it and heat to 50c it works like a charm. but… I have no idea how to get it to stick to the aluminum… it just kind of slid around. I’ll try more once I’ve gotten the display case printed out and something to hold the filament spool…

    Publish the “order of assembly”. I did get a few things in the wrong order. Just use the one I posted above if you like. it’s probably good enough to get people going. publish the bottom picture and the other chain hookup pic. my guess is overly complicated.

    it was pretty easy to get together in a bit more than an evening…. It’s mostly intuitive (although I may not be a great test case for the general population).

    I like it and have recommended it to others..

    #15857

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Wow Thanks!

    I will have a run through next time I build one.

    The aluminum beds must have different holes than the PCB ones I have on mine. I didn’t bother to check, it should’ve been standard…my bad for assuming.

    The extra holes I just pop through by hand they are needed in different places on both my printers, but maybe I can make it a little different.

    I did raise the ramps up as far as I could go to use the same holes for the ramps and power supply. I could make these different parts I guess.

    What size steppers are you running, mine are barely warm (the ones from the cnc kit)?

    I should mark the bed holes for sure, I have screwed that up myself.

    #15862

    John
    Participant

    I’m using the CNc steppers. If you set the drivers for running a pair, then current will be high for just one stepper right? In any case it’s more than pretty warm and less than hot…

    Something to play with and reset to a lower value…

    #15864

    Neil
    Participant

    HDPE cuts like a dream!!
    Neil

    #15866

    John
    Participant

    Where do you get the hpde?

    #15867

    Neil
    Participant

    Good ol menards. $60 for a sheet.
    I can get quite a few frames out of it. 4 for sure. Like I said I’ll have plenty of frames by the end of the weekend lol. I’m just cutting to get a feel for the machine. So far so good (once I remembered to set the clearance on the z-axis to 3mm, I tried .20mm and scratched the surface as the bit moved from hole to hole). Oh well live and learn.
    Neil

    #15869

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Make sure you set the axis nice and square before you start each cut or you will get ugly seems and a not perfect printer.

    The hdpe is pretty sweet, I bought a half sheet. I want to find the dual color stuff locally. The surface is one color and the inside is another, makes nice looking parts. I found some online but the price is crazy.

    #15870

    Neil
    Participant

    I was thinking some of that garolite g10 or whatever I used for quad copter frames was the same way. Black skin orange inside the stuff was amazing.

    You talking square the z-axis? Yeah that photo makes it look warped. I think it’s an illusion as the cut is square. It’s from me getting anxious and trying to pull the remaining lip of Hdpe away from the cut piece.

    Neil

    #15952

    John
    Participant

    This is complete now (until tinkering begins)

    Attachments:
    #15954

    Jason
    Participant

    Beauty!

    I am hoping to modify the design to carry a 300×200 bed… 300mm on the X axis so the Y does not have to move further as it is heavier.

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