Minnesota Build

This topic contains 75 replies, has 14 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Jeffeb3 Jeffeb3 3 hours, 38 minutes ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 76 total)
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  • #29408
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Hey guys – just getting started – MPCNC 25.4mm

    I’ve got all of my parts printed and I have all of my electronics. Still have to get the tubing, hardware and build platform.

    I have a couple of questions hoping others can help guide me. Does the MPCNC need to have min/max limit switches for all axis?

    I bought a pack of 5 limit switches from Amazon – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017GXU0IK and I am trying to find the most ideal limit switch mount to use as I need to find the .stl and print them out but need to know if I need three or six.

    Also, other than the base MPCNC parts are there others that I need to print out in order to move along with the build quickly once I start?

    I am going to use the universal mount which I have printed and I also have the mount for the Dewalt 660.

    I see lots of these that have cable chains.. are those bought or printed?

    • This topic was modified 2 weeks, 2 days ago by Profile photo of Kris Kris.
    #29505
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    Hmm, I don’t use any switches. Explanation in the FAQ’s.

    Universal mount? The mount for the new 525 update is pretty universal. The other mount has had some rigidity issues with the routers but all the other tools are good enough.

    I use the flex wire loom I feel it puts a little less tug on the center gantry.

    To each his own though I don’t mind what goes on, just sharing my setup.

    #29515
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Vicious1 – I had not read the FAQs but I now have thanks for guiding me to them. I know I didn’t digest all of the content but now I know where to check before posting a question.

    I did print the 525 along with this option for the DW660 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018477 and this Dust Shoe – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:410266 … Not sure if they are the best option –

    Are you using the plastic wire loom or the snake skin type? I see lots of builds with cable chains so I was not sure what the common practice is for cable management.

    Perhaps you can set me straight on this… I printed out the MPCNC Hardware list and headed to my local fleet farm type store… I am not sure I got everything needed and probably not the right size. Please excuse my ignorace as I am just learning here…

    1. the 28 5/16 18×1.25 — could not find any of this size.. will 5/16 18×1.5 work?

    2. When I look at the photo of the bundle hardware I see some really large fender washers, a spring and nuts on the threaded rod and in the middle by the TO resistor there are two more screws and some round items… these are not on the hardware list page… so what are they and the quantity ?

    #29516
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    Try the mount should be good. Of course I lean towards my own designs, and are usually the only ones I ever try.

    Yup snake skin style, I have some in the shop if you aren’t sure.

    1.5″ might have issues on a few parts, but a dremel could help you out. I believe I have heard they work but you might want another confirmation. The center gantry has some small clearances. This comes up a lot it has probably been answered in the forums.

    The picture is old, we don’t use those parts anymore the parts list is current. I have to clear my desk to take a new picture….I’m kinda lazy sometimes.

    #29519
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Thanks for clearing that up for me as I was thinking I was missing a handful of things.

    I’ve not settled on a size yet but perhaps you can advise me… if I am only going to cut stuff like lite plywood, foam, plastic, etc what would be a middle of the road Z height?

    I don’t think I would ever use it for 3d printing. The only other thing I can think of possibly is the laser if that is not too expensive to add in the future.

    #29535
    Profile photo of Matt saeger
    Matt saeger
    Participant

    I am in Minnesota too.

    I found that 1.5″ was too long in some places so I kept looking until I found a hardware store that had 1.25″. The one I found them at also sold them by weight so it was cheap too.

    #29537
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Thanks – I will have to check at our local Ace Hardware not sure if they will have those sizes let alone how much they will be as I think Ace sells by the item and not weight. I have access to big box stores that are about 30 minutes away so may check those this weekend.

    While I am asking all of these questions… is there any one set of videos out on YouTube that would be ideal for a beginner – anything that you all would recommend?

    #29539
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    some old guy coding, has every single step in his vids.

    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 1 day ago by Profile photo of vicious1 vicious1.
    #29600
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Z height… looking for some feedback on this… planning on getting my tubing this weekend. I am only going to cut stuff like lite plywood, foam, plastic, etc.

    What common types of bits do I need for the DW660 ?

    I bought these off Amazon but not sure if these will work or if I need something else, etc.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO

    #29605
    Profile photo of Bryan
    Bryan
    Participant

    Lowes should have all the hardware you need. I was able to get it all in one trip. Home Depot didn’t have most of it. They didn’t even stock it.

    #29617
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Good to know about the hardware.. will check Lowes out this weekend.

    So let me ask… what sort of Z height do most folks have?

    #29628
    Profile photo of Brian
    Brian
    Participant

    I don’t remember my exact z height but I kept it real short. Something like 4.5 inches. Maybe a tad more but mine is too small since I built my spoilboard up from the actual surface. I cut my 4 feet at 3.5″ and my Z tubes were whatever the calc said to use. I think 12″.

    #29631
    Profile photo of Neil
    Neil
    Participant

    As far as build size goes as well. I have built 2 MPCNC’s for myself so far (one for dirty work mill and the other for laser/3d print). I can say both my builds were built around me being able to fit a 20×30″ sheet of foam board under there (with the original intent on being able to cut out rc planes from adams foam board – which I have yet to even attempt). It turns out I have never even cut anything that was more than ~18″ on the x axis and 5″ on y. That said I am printing parts for a third build (luckily I have some extra garage space) which will be smaller (going to mock Ryans build exactly – table and all). I originally thought bigger was better and why limit myself. I like knowing I can throw something quite large under the table but have I really used it yet (no)… So if I were you, think of what material you are going to be throwing on the bed most often and base your build around that. If you are planning on cutting 1/4″ mdf that you source locally in 4’x2′ sections then just allow for the smaller dimension to be able to fit in the bed (you can always over-hang your extra stock.

    I am rambling along but I originally thought I ‘needed’ a much larger bed than I have ever really used. Best thing is start small and if you decide you really need a larger table then spend 5 bucks on new conduit – 9 bucks on a 6 pack and spend an afternoon making it bigger. That is truly the beauty of Ryan’s design is it is fairly easy to scale up or down in the future.

    happy 2nd b-day mpcnc!
    Neil

    #29632
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Neil / Bryan – thanks for the feedback. I’m struggling with where I am going to keep this new tool. I live in minnesota and only have a two car garage and that’s already consumed by a workbench and cabinets, etc. I have a good size shed but the lack of heat won’t help me in the winter… So I think I am gonna need to build something that is portable that I can move from the garage to the basement or something like that when it gets cold out … not sure will need to ponder this more over the weekend. Where do I find Ryan’s build dimensions?

    #29634
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    This is my “portable”one sometimes its on a table sometimes the dining room, this week the office floor. made just tall enough to print the toolholder part. my others are 3″ and 4” in the z direction.

    #29658
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Vicious1 – Where do you get the Braided Cable Sleeves. Amazon? what sizes are most common for the basic set up?

    #29659
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    I have it in the shop for sale, but I get it bulk from my cable tie supplier.

    #29668
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    So I printed out your Ramps 1.4 Cover and controller box. Am I correct to say that the 40mm fan should just go into the green 12vdc power in port on the Ramps board?

    #29670
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    wire it into the plug, not the ramps.

    #29671
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    You mean the wire that comes from the PSU to feed the Ramps, correct?

    #29672
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    yes wire it into the screw terminals on the green plug

    #29681
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to the spoil board? I have not decided where I am going to build this MPCNC or what I will be attaching it too. I have seen some examples where there appears to be no spoil board and then others where its removable. I was thinking of getting that sort of MDF that already has the slots for hold downs but still not sure.

    #29689

    You don’t really need a fancy spoil board with holes and stuffs. Just pick some random board and screw your worpieces directly on top of it. It is cheaper, easier, less time consuming and works pretty much the same.

    #29703
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    I agree, it gets beat up pretty fast, I screw, glue, and tape to it. Fancy hold downs are against my religion, morals, or constitution maybe? Whatever, just get your material to stay put and cut it that is about as much thought as I put into it.

    Almost all the milling we did at school on anything other than large block material was done using double sided tape in very large hass mills. pretty crazy, but it gives a sense of how the old school shop teacher has been doing it for years in an semi-engineering environment.

    #29704
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    Thanks for the information on the spoil board.

    I am now running into a bigger issue… All my parts I printed at 25.4mm thinking that the EMT in my area is 1″

    I just checked two local places that have Allied EMT and neither the 1″ or 3/4″ will work.

    The 3/4″ has an O.D. of 0.922

    The 1″ has an O.D. of 1.163

    This Allied EMT product was at my local Ace Hardware and a farm store.

    So now I am hoping I can find a true 1″ in a larger town from me that has Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc.

    #29705
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    No it doesn’t work that way.

    I put it in all the descriptions, parts pages, and shop pages. 23.5mm OD parts are for U.S. 3/4″ ID conduit. 25.4mm in the U.S. only works for special order stainless steel tubing sold as 1″ OD tubing.

    #29706
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    so I have to reprint or special order…

    #29707
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    so I have to reprint or special order…

    #29708
    Profile photo of vicious1
    vicious1
    Keymaster

    Unfortunately. I don’t think there are any other sources for 1″OD tubing. I am sure we would have heard about it. Have a look, some hardware stores are said to have 1″ OD closet rod, I have found 1″ OD shower rod but it immediately deforms under the pressure of the bearings.

    #29709
    Profile photo of Kris
    Kris
    Participant

    I will go check tonight… looking at the HD and Menards website indeed it appears to be the same type of tube and not 1″ O.D. however, Lowes says “actual” 1″ so who knows…..

    I did get a quote from SpeedyMetals but not sure if they are the best ones online to go with or not.

    I am not sure if this is even correct…..measurement wise and quantity wise.

    I asked for:
    I am needing to find a reasonable price on 1″ stainless cut to length.
    6 @ 46.4 ”

    2 @ 19.5 ”

    4 @ 11.5″

    and they responded with

    4 11.500 1 od x .049w 304 s.s.weld tube A269 3.90 $2.06 PC $8.24 1 Day
    2 19.500 1 od x .049w 304 s.s.weld tube A269 3.28 $3.46 PC $6.91 1 Day
    6 46.400 1 od x .049w 304 s.s.weld tube A269 23.30 $8.20 PC $49.17 1 Day

    at a cost of $64.32

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