- March 19, 2017 at 8:28 pm #29796
Time to start a build thread on the second printer, we’re tweaking the design a bit though. This one has a 300x380mm footprint using a 600W silicone heat pad with glass for the build area. So far we have a mock up assembled with foam board, though all the printed parts are done. We’re thinking of remixing a few parts, but the bulk are stock. First image still needed some resizing of the routed parts, second is much closer to right. I put the pulp magazine from the 1930s to give an approximation of size (about 7×10″).
Attachments:March 20, 2017 at 10:57 am #29840
Looks awesome. I don’t have a pulp magazine from the 70s as reference. 300×380 seems pretty big though.
You’ll have to put it next to the other one and take a pic when it’s done.March 20, 2017 at 1:25 pm #29860
That is awesome! Nice work Bill. Now you can print me the Cyclone Dust Collector (which wont fit on any of my beds), LOL.
I would love to see a side by side as well!
NeilMarch 20, 2017 at 2:48 pm #29866
Will do. I get back home the end of the week so it’ll be a few days. My partner on this needed one big enough to print skate shoes for one of his projects and his should work just fine! 🙂March 21, 2017 at 7:55 am #29924
Skate shoes? Sounds interesting. I hope someone is finally making legit hockey skates that don’t require all the lacing. Just a big strap or something. If you have the time, can you also make the “Hockey Onesie” I’ve been thinking about? It’s a full jumpsuit with all the pads sewn into it, just put in two legs, then zip it up, go out on the ice/roller rink. I spend about 40 minutes getting dress/undressed for a 1 hour game, so I have a lot of time to think about these things. 🙂March 23, 2017 at 7:54 pm #30096
I would be interested in seeing a write up on this when you are finished!!! Good luck!March 24, 2017 at 3:35 am #30106
@Jeff Can you imagine the stink of a hockey onsie!!?? At least you can wash the regular jersey!March 24, 2017 at 7:57 am #30120
I mean, you _can_ wash them…March 26, 2017 at 1:31 pm #30238
OK, getting a little closer. This time with unfinished wood, it’s about 1/4″ Russian plywood, slightly modified since the foam board mockup. The larger surface at rear allows a couple of threaded rods to be placed across the X axis with rollers on them that will hold spools of filament. John is doing the finish work to the wood this afternoon and the next step is deciding if we’re going with the MK8 extruder or an E3D v6 with bowden tube. The advantage to the latter is the weight removed from the hot end, the advantage to the MK8 is the endorsement here…
Attachments:March 28, 2017 at 9:55 pm #30434
What do you think? Too many spools? 😉
We’re thinking of switching from the spring separated rollers to a full width piece of PVC with bearings mounted on each end. No need to adjust for different spool widths that way. Has anyone tried something similar? Are there issues with the spool shifting left and right during a print?
Attachments:March 29, 2017 at 7:05 am #30443
That’s awesome. I was thinking of customizing the dxf files the other day, and I thought I would do it in OnShape, which would mean I could share it, and have variables for the bed size, material thickness, etc. Any interest? I like the spool holder built in. If anyone wants to do that before I get to it, be my guest. I always have more ideas than time to finish them.
Different spools have different sized holes. I guess you could print a spacer to go to the larger one.
The spool holders I’ve had always have plusses and minuses. The ones that hold the bottom, like this one, have a tendency to screw up when the spool is nearly empty, and the filament is rolled very tight. They tend to pull the whole roll off the stand. But the kind holding the axle always has a problem with full spools, where one or two loops of filament can come off the side and bind on the axle. IMO, you need something that holds the axle, and also has sides, to prevent the filament from u looping over the sides. Does that make sense? Hard to explain without pics.March 29, 2017 at 11:44 am #30460
Putting the spool holder in the right position and setting the bearings for the easiest spin is all you need to do to minimize problems near empty. I’ve never run into any issues with mine and had one part pull until there was only six inches or so before the print finished. I think I’ve got a half dozen or so wraps on my red spool right now, but I’m more likely to use that for a color layer in something rather than starting a part on it.March 29, 2017 at 3:48 pm #30468
My spool holder sits on it’s side, so I just use my bottle of windex or paper towel roll to keep it from unspooling onto the table. I just push them against the spool, also adds a little drag so it doesn’t unwind when the effector goes down to print.
March 29, 2017 at 7:52 pm #30489
- This reply was modified 1 month ago by Barry.
But then what happens when the Windex is almost empty?!?!March 30, 2017 at 9:40 pm #30563
Well, obviously you refill the bottle. 🙂 Not a problem with the XL…
With a little diligent searching we found a pair of aluminum tubes at the local not-so-big box store that just fit the bearings. The bearings fit with a little bit of glue into the small tube, the small tube fits snugly into the large tube and together they hold the spool(s) while allowing smooth movement with just enough drag to keep things sane.
Attachments:April 13, 2017 at 2:43 pm #31358
I keep telling him he’s too picky, but the finish is finally nice enough for us to continue. We’re ready to do some actual assembly! 😉
Attachments:April 13, 2017 at 4:10 pm #31370
And… A few mods we were able to do with the bigger frame. First notice we have four linear bearings under the bed instead of three. We could do that because the Y axis stepper wasn’t going to be in the way. It also looks like we’ll be able to get closer to the front and back of the bed. Next we redid the rollers for the belts to use toothed pulleys, this keeps the belt from wandering to the side. On my mostly stock MP3DP both the X and Y belts are grinding against the plastic.
Attachments:April 13, 2017 at 4:10 pm #31374
That looks really good. Did you double up the front/back? It looks thicker.April 13, 2017 at 7:07 pm #31393
Your XL is looking great! It is going to open up a lot of printing options for you.April 13, 2017 at 7:46 pm #31398
Jeff, yes we’ve got two thicknesses of the wood at front and back. That decision was made the first time we noticed how bowed the front and back were on mine… Possibly too tight of belts, but definitely an issue. I haven’t decided how to address it with my printer, but I’m certainly going with more stiffening on the third printer. There’s an issue potentially with the XL in terms of side to side sway at the front. I think we’re going to go with a base to hold it in and possibly angle brackets until the base is made.
Jim, you bet! I’m printing pieces for a Lyman Filament Extruder right now, and I’m going to have to wait for the XL to be finished to finish the Lyman, some parts need an extra inch that’s just not there with a 200×200 base.April 13, 2017 at 10:25 pm #31406
Dui, ni shuo de duiParticipant
How do you plan to control the heat bed? SSR?
You will probably need a very beefy power supply for that, what is your plan here?April 14, 2017 at 3:06 am #31407
I cut new front back pieces for mine in 1/2″ stock. I haven’t installed them yet.
I’m guess you’ve seen my base, right?
You should be able to edit that a lot easier than starting from scratch. I think it made a big difference in the base squareness. Ryan also suggested integrating some of those L pieces with the base to get the front/back panels to be stiffer.April 14, 2017 at 9:51 am #31424
Dui, I bought a 60A supply to drive the heat bed. The bed is rated at 600W 12V, so 60A gives me some wiggle room.
Jeff, yes it will be very close to yours. We’re going with a rectangle on the outside so we can fit an enclosure over it but it’ll have the same type of pockets to hold the base in place. I’m also planning the same for my standard size printer. They should cut down on the noise and allow for a bit more heat stability.April 15, 2017 at 9:38 pm #31521
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