MPCNC – Build log

This topic contains 22 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  srcnet 8 months, 3 weeks ago.

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
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  • #20771

    srcnet
    Participant

    Starting a new build that is 20 x 14 work area. I figured I would upload some pictures and notes to help others. I have an old Prusa Mendel that I made about 5-6 years ago that I want to reuse some of the parts from. My newer 3D printers just have way better quality.

    Couple things so far
    – I ordered “1” OD {A} x 0.870″ ID {B} x .065″ {C} Wall 304 Stainless Steel Tube (Tubing)” from Speedy Metals. Hopefully the extra wall thickness doesn’t add enough weight to the machine. It was significantly less than .05″
    – I am printing all my parts. After the last few days, $190 in the store sounds like a deal. Not sure if would print my own if I was to start over. Maybe I am just overly anxious to get building, but my printer hasn’t stopped since Saturday morning. I am using a FlashForge Creator Pro, Simplify 3D and Hatchbox PLA. My parts are beating the time estimate by about 25%
    – I found all my 5/16 hardware at Tractor Supply. Home Depot and Lowes did not have the right lengths or nuts (weird?).

    I used the spreadsheet attached to keep track of what to print, and what color.

    Feedback is welcome.

    #20887

    srcnet
    Participant

    Got the frame built. Now I am trying to figure out how to drill a hole through stainless steel pipe

    #20892

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    For me cutting it was the nightmare. I drill the holes by first marking an “X” with a dremmel cut off wheel. Then its pretty easy. I do that for the regular conduit as well.

    #20898

    srcnet
    Participant

    Oh the “X” is a good idea. I ended up getting holes. I ran out to the hardware store and got a Irwin Titanium bit. The regular steel bits I had barely scratched it. I started with 9/64″ and then got a 5/16″. I used some oil I had laying around during the drilling

    #20910

    srcnet
    Participant

    Got the center assembly done. I was having an issue with the threaded rod going in easy. Once I backed off tension bolt B, it worked perfectly.

    #20923

    David
    Participant

    Find a friend with a drill press or a mill.. Lucky for me my work has a mill.

    #20928

    srcnet
    Participant

    Got it all wired up this morning. Unfortunately the control board I wanted to use isn’t working. It was an old Sanguino board from a 3D printer I built 5-6 years ago. I guess I will have to wait until RAMPS shows up.

    #21048

    srcnet
    Participant

    I got my new RAMPS board in and the belts on. I have good movement on all axis.

    Now I am trying to draw the crown. I am so close I can taste it. I followed the tutorial and manually set the pen right over the paper. When I go to print, it raises like 20-30 mm and draws in the air.

    #21052

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Try getting the pen were you want it. Reset the arduino, then run the program.

    If it still lifts up, its something with your gcode.

    If it works that means your zero points had moved. Usually becuase you moved the head with the lcd or computer vs just moving it by hand.

    #21053

    srcnet
    Participant

    That was it! It is drawing right now.

    Thank you. I would have never thought to reset the arduino. It would have just magically worked tomorrow. ha

    #21054

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    HAHAHA so awesome. I have had the magic work for me many times!

    Just try not to forget it now. I have screwed up a few repeat jobs by not resetting it in between. I will move the head, clamp the part and hit go and bamm off it goes in the wrong direction usually crashing into the work piece. The new firmware is actng a bit funny but usually you can just hit reset home offsets in the lcd and it will reset them, maybe back again in the next update.

    #21055

    srcnet
    Participant

    I feel like it may be helpful if you add that in the Estlcam or Repetier-Host page. I don’t ever remember reading anything about the reset.

    Here is my first crown!

    #21057

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I am done for the day but I put it on the notepad ob the list of things to do. Thanks!

    The crown looks great. Time to get it dirty….( or maybe draw some more things to learn the software a bit first)

    #21063

    Bill
    Participant

    Heh, my first crown ended up being a weird diamond shape. The Z axis was moving backwards, so it drew the crown in the air and everything else on the paper. 🙂

    #21229

    srcnet
    Participant

    I bought the drag knife from the shop. Works pretty good. I didn’t really have to do anything different from the instructions

    #21231

    srcnet
    Participant

    Yes… I’m trying to stall getting it dirty. The Dewalt is sitting in a box hanging out. haha

    #21649

    Renegadez
    Participant

    SRCNET, have you built your machine using the pip you purchased? 1″ OD {A} x 0.870″ ID {B} x .065″ {C} Wall 304 Stainless Steel Tube (Tubing), Annealed-48″ I am wondering how well it worked out for you? Did you print the 25MM parts set? How well did they work with this pipe? Thanks So much!

    #24142

    srcnet
    Participant

    If you get 1″ SS tubing, you need the 25.4 set.

    #24143

    srcnet
    Participant

    Work got really busy, so this went on hold for a few weeks.

    I got the spoil board made yesterday. I used the Dewalt to make some holes for the tee nuts. I didn’t router out the entire part, just made a small hole to get placement. Then I finished with a regular drill and counter sunk them. The spoil board is bigger than the working area, so I only cut 1/4 at a time and rotated the board.

    If I was to do it over again, I would probably draw it to cutout everything. I also learned about threaded inserts, so that might have been better instead.

    I will probably cut on top of foam, on top of this board. So not sure if this is really called spoil board. Foam will end up be the spoil.

    #24144

    srcnet
    Participant

    This is the dxf file I drew. My board was 2′ x 2′ MDF and I had 16 tee nuts to space out evenly.

    edit: Guess we can’t post dxf

    #24146

    srcnet
    Participant

    Here is a pic with some hold downs I printed.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21057

    I drew the T holddown over since it was for M5 and I’m using 1/4-20. Based off this
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1347836

    #24196

    Chris
    Participant

    Good timing! I was looking for some hold downs to print today.

    #24197

    srcnet
    Participant

    Here is the “T” I drew.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2011917

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