My MPCNC Build

This topic contains 9 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  ErikFromNorway 1 year, 1 month ago.

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  • #8570

    Here it is… My new and now fully operational and calibrated MPCNC. I’m very happy with how it’s running, far superior to the Prusa i3 that donated it’s parts! Had to move it to a sturdier table and bolt it to the wall for maximum accuracy.
    Full size prints are currently limited to PLA until the heated bed and chamber are installed

    Bed Area = 425mmx295mmx170mm
    Repetier Firmware on Gen2z Mainboard
    Auto Bed leveling
    BuildTak Printing Surface

    In development:
    5.5W Diode laser cutter
    4th Axis for CNC
    Dual Extruder for 3D Printer
    Full size heated bed
    full enclosure for laser safety, fume extraction and environmental control

    Tool holders / Work Clamp and rail system designed by FLZ
    Printed in Premium PLA from 3D FilaPrint

    #8572

    karltinsly
    Participant

    Very nice! Where did you get the black pipe?

    #8575

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nice!

    #8584

    Drew Rogge
    Participant

    Oooooo…. 5.5W laser! I want!

    #8585

    nerdyrcdriver
    Participant

    That’s a really nice build! I am also curious about the pipes. Are they black anodized?

    #8586

    Leo69
    Participant

    Dtr laser shop has 6watt nubm44 diodes for $150 now. You’ll need a 6amp driver to run it though. Theres a well recommended settler on eBay x-wossee who sells these drivers for about $50. Only thing is I’ve read the spot size is bigger than the ndb7875 diodes so better suited for cutting than detailed engraving.

    #8615

    Hi All, Thanks for the compliments, The conduit is from here https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CO25slash3.html it’s black enamel it does make the tubes slightly oversized so my axis are a little stiff but as I use it they are freeing up as the enamel gets crushed by the bearings, its got 15hours on it now and over the print bed they are practically frictionless. The white tubes are thinwalled tubes designed for wardrobe hanging rod replacement, they are very light which helps with the 3D print accuracy.

    This is the laser module I will be fitting driving the TTL from repitier firmware which has 3d print laser and CNC capable off the bat with a simple Gcode command to swap between
    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-5w-high-power-450NM-focusing-blue-laser-module-laser-engraving-and-cutting-TTL-module-5500mw/32559183201.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.11.JZ6ZwO&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_1,searchweb201644_1_505_506_503_504_10020_502_10001_10002_10017_10005_10006_10021_10003_10004_10022_10018_10019,searchweb201560_3,searchweb1451318400_-1,searchweb1451318411_-1&btsid=0d6fc92c-5c13-4f40-9c26-e5b6fe4e24a1

    Cheers

    #8673

    Leo69
    Participant

    Your build looks great . I’m not too familiar with Repetier but I think it uses an Arduino analogWrite commad to send the laser PWM control signals. This is similar to the GRBL and Marlin laser implementations. For a laser as powerful as yours will be, I’d suggest you edit the firmware to use one of the spare 16-bit timers on the Mega board. Then you’ll be able to configure the frequency and the resolution to work better with your laser. The analogWrite command only allows values between 0 and 255. With your beastly laser you’ll probably be running at about 25% duty cycle or less for most grayscale engravings which means you’ll lose grayscale resolution. Then again, maybe the repetier firmware already allows this configuration.I’ve recently modded my Marlin firmware to do 11 bit resolution even though it doesn’t make a big difference on my 2.8w diode. I do plan to upgrade soon though and I’ll see the benefits then:)

    https://youtu.be/UKaB_yKT4No

    #15014

    ErikFromNorway
    Participant

    Hi Fluffy,

    Nice build! I see that you have auto bed leveling on your machine. I’m trying to achieve the same on my machine, but I have some problems because I don’t have endstops for X and Y axes.

    When I try to issue the G29 command to start the auto bed levering procedure, I get the error message “Home X/Y before Z”. The problem is that I can’t home the axes because of missing endstops (as recommended by vicious). I need to do this manually and somehow tell the printer that it’s homed. I have zeroed all the axes using the G92-command, but that’s not enough. Did you have similar problems?

    Regards,
    Erik

    #15092

    ErikFromNorway
    Participant
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