New build in TN started.

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This topic contains 111 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 week, 1 day ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 112 total)
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  • #41475

    Russ Heffner
    Participant
    #41485

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    oooh.. aaah. Nice looking table.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #41486

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    DAM! There we go. Lest see the side you are having the alignment issue with.

    #41487

    Nice color 🙂

    #41488

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Feed-screw-not-fitting
    Here is a pic it is the same on both sides. Note I have the thicker side of the Z_RollerLR mounted to the board…

    #41491

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I had a similar issue. I blame my 3D printing of the leadscrew nut holder. I ended up just sanding the part that attaches to the plate a little bit, so it would end up square. I also considered shimming it a little bit.

    #41492

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Thanks for the tip I will try some shims between the board and lead screw holder since I need it to be further away from the board. I’ll let you know how that goes.

    #41493

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It’s at an angle, isn’t it, compared to the z rails,  are you sure the Nut just isn;t in crooked?

    #41494

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Before we go shimming things, Those are my prints and my flat parts and mine fit right. Can I see the actual mount.

    #41520

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Here are pics I did shim I will undo it if we need to. Although I did get the lead screw plum see photos. Let me know what you think. Pic 1 shows the lead screw plum.

    feed-screw-level

    Feed-screw-2

    Feed-screw

    #41524

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Another question guys. Do the rails (conduit) for the Z rub on the side of the table or is there supposed to be a gap? If a gap how much?

    RussH

    #41527

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Preferably a gap but depends on how square your table is, small gap 1/16-1/4″.

    #41532

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Sorry I have been having BIOS issues, Should be all good now.

    Four possibility that I see.
    1-I just double checked the CAD, it’s dead on.
    2-Part printed with an Elephant foot, squashed bottom that flares out, that would angle the rod the way yours is. I checked the two sets I have here they seem pretty dam good actually. So your probably is as well.
    3-screwing the brass nut in too tight angled it out(away form the table), loosen them and give em a wiggle.
    4-maybe my printers aren’t super perpendicular and actually printed at an angle….that would suck, I check once and a while but I will check when the current set of parts finishes.

    Either way, this isn’t all that critical, if you have it connected you will be okay. The cosine (maybe tangent) error that this could introduce would be very tiny, and only in the Z direction. Less than the deflection the urethane wheels would give I’m sure.

    #41553

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The issue isn’t accuracy as much as it is friction in the screw. I just kind of pushed mine over until it threaded and it wouldn’t turn very well at all. That’s when I sanded it.

    I think the issue might be that the screws that hold it to the plate are on the top, so if you tighten it (or over tighten it) it will angle that part. I remember guessing something like that. It’s been a while.

    #41567

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    I have a wiring question. See pic is this correct for wiring in series? Rambo board to stepper on the operator side then wire to the opposite stepper.

    Thanks

    Russh

     

    wire-in-series3

    wire-in-series-2

    Wire-in-series1

    #41572

    Ryan
    Keymaster
    #41661

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    I am ready to test the steppers. I downloaded the Arduino I know the Marlin firmware is flashed on the Rambo, I have downloaded the Repetier host software.

    What I do not understand is what to do with the Arduino software. WIll someone please explain.

    Thanks,

    Russh

    #41662

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Normally you just install it to get the arduino drivers on your system, Do that just in case, but I don’t think the rambo needs it. It’s hard to say. You won;t actually have to use the arduino software unless you want to flash new firmware.

    #41663

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You’d use the Arduino software to change the Marlin code on the mini Rambo. If you don’t need to change the marlin code, then you don’t need the Arduino software.

    #41664

    Jeffeb3
    Participant
    Normally you just install it to get the arduino drivers on your system, Do that just in case, but I don’t think the rambo needs it. It’s hard to say. You won;t actually have to use the arduino software unless you want to flash new firmware.

    Oh yeah, windows needs drivers. I forgot.

    #41666

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Thank you guys. Ok I started the board up (no smoke that’s good) but the LCD screen did not light up. And no motors moved.

    Then I remembered somewhere it said to jump something on the board to trick it into thinking the heater for 3D printer is on. If that’s the case how do I jump that out on the board

    thanks again all

     

    #41667

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Did you connect the power supply? The mini-rambo can’t power itself from the USB alone.

    The resistor jumper is used if you don’t have an extruder, and have the wrong firmware, but it won’t prevent the LCD from lighting up, and telling you that there’s a heating problem.

    Ryan’s probably answering this same question…

    #41668

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    I am not 3D printing just using the low rider to do some wood working

    #41669

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    So maybe I do need to jump out the heater on the board?

    #41672

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    wait…

    #41673

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    No worries I’ll wait for more info.

    Thanks

    #41675

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The motors won;t move by themselves and if you don;t have a screen going then you can;t move the motors, so that part is solved.

    As for the screen, it is probably just plugged in wrong there are four ways it do it so 25% chance of getting it right on the first try…It always takes me a few.

    Just look at my picture in the rambo page showing everything plugged in that I previously linked.
    Make sure port 1 is plugged into port 1, 2 into 2, form there we are down to 50/50. If it still doesn’t work power down and flip the plugs the other way.

    On the lcd if you have the cables pointed towards the bottom of the screen the rambo end will point towards the middle of the board.

    There is a real solid chance (99.999%) you have the correct firmware that does not need any heater resistor plugged in, I stopped that before I started carrying minirambo’s, pretty sure I made you wait and you are the first one to get the new firmware but I am not 100% on that.

    #41681

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Thanks Ryan I received your email. I was using the Repetior host software to try and move the motors.

    I will let you know how things turn out in the morning.

    Thanks again for your help

    #41730

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    The ribbon cables will only plug in in one direction ribbons facing UP. I tried again and the LCD did not power up. I have them just like shown in the link sent. I did reverse the ports also and still no LCD.

    I also sent photos of the cables and the wiring harness to connect the motors. The wiring harness sent is different than what shows in the link. Just want to be sure the one I have are correct. Please take a look at the pics I sent let me know.

    #41741

    Ryan
    Keymaster
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