- September 27, 2015 at 2:18 am #3224
Love the project!
Question in regards to Print numbers. On the parts Page on the main site, it states I need 2 Middle Z, however the attached spreadsheet says I need 4.
Can someone please confirm?
DeanSeptember 27, 2015 at 2:43 am #3225
What springs to mind here is that the original Middle Z, you required 4 (four) off.
But the new and improved Middle Z ( called better middle z ) you only require 2 (two) off.
Could that be where the confusion is?
Greg.September 27, 2015 at 4:55 pm #3248
Thanks for the quick reply.
Yeh that is what it was related to. Question that springs to mind from that, I am printing the international 25mm edition.
Will the new and improved Middle Z be compatible with that?
DeanSeptember 27, 2015 at 5:51 pm #3249
Make sure your take note on the thingiverse site that states :- IE Users please update to V2
This means that you need to use the file called :- IE_Middle_Z_rigid_v2
My understanding from what I have read, is that this part was made to increase the rigidity of the Z axis.
What state are you from Dean?
Greg.September 27, 2015 at 6:41 pm #3251
Thanks for that Greg, I will give it a crack to see what I can print out.
I am from NSW. Trying to find a “Reliable” source for the rods.
What size bed have you made with your version?September 27, 2015 at 6:47 pm #3252
I’m currently gone with the following sizes, and using 25.0mm 316 Stainless Steel conduit.
885.0mm X axis
720.0mm Y axis
340.0mm Z axis
These sizes allows me to have very little wastage from a 6mtr length of tube.
I’m also from NSW, Sydney, and I found an Electrical supplier just around the corner.
The problem is that the cost of this tube is way more then any other steel conduit.
But it is the correct size, as I went around to them and checked.
Greg.September 27, 2015 at 7:11 pm #3255
That is around the same size I was thinking for practicality.
What was the cost for SS? I was thinking of using that to reduce friction.
Im located on the Central Coast, what was the name of the supplier?
DeanSeptember 27, 2015 at 7:32 pm #3256
The total cost including cutting the 12 pieces will be $216.00 plus GST.
Not cheap but I have account with John Turks, and their supply only
cost for a 3mtr length was $96 plus GST. So I figured that this was
an ok price. Also their material cost only is $120.00 plus GST. so if
you want to just purchase and cut yourself!
Their name is BES Electrical Supplies, their contact number is 02 9675 7888
Ask to speak with Graeme, and let them know that you had been speaking with Greg
from NAVCO Australia. That way, he knows what the material is for! They also have
other conduit there but I went with this one due to the size and finish.
Also when I went over their to measure the material it measures very accurate.
The cutting list that I gave them was as follows :-
hope that helps.
Greg.September 27, 2015 at 9:33 pm #3263
Thanks for that, I will give him a call to get those.
Question with the size of your unit, do you have many issues with accuracy with the flex of the poles?
I wouldnt think that would be a major issue given people have made units as large as 4’x4′.
DeanSeptember 27, 2015 at 10:05 pm #3265
To be perfectly honest I’m still printing my parts, so I would not be able to give you an experienced answer on that.
The wall thickness on these SS tubes are 1.6mm thick. I wanted them thicker but nothing else would do.
So that is another reason why, on a first build not go any bigger in Axis length then what I have. But
this tube being 316SS does help in the rigidity.
Here is a link to what I have found to be available conduit here in Australia :- http://www.williamsmining.com.au/Williams%20Mining%20Catalogue%202013.pdf
Greg.September 28, 2015 at 12:13 am #3267
How far through the print list are you?
Additionally, how have you gone with sourcing bulk fasteners? I have had mixed success online with Ebay etc, however I am hoping to find a supplier more local to collect.
DeanSeptember 28, 2015 at 1:37 am #3268
Have completed all four corners now, just started on the X and Y assemblies. As these are almost solid prints for me they take both allot of ABS filament and time to print. Yes I’m printing in ABS, mainly for strength, to bring the parts into tolerance I’m hand machining where necessary. But so far I have only required an Adjustable Hand Reamer, to bring the 25.0mm holes/clamp arcs into exact sizes, as most other parts are spot on.
Fasteners will never be an issue as there are many places here in Sydney to source the nuts and bolts.
As far as the Electronics, Steppers, Drives and Bearings, I have almost 100% completed my list of sources.
Greg.September 28, 2015 at 6:24 pm #3273
Im currently printing in ABS as well and so far have not encountered to many issues with the filament.
Agree with the corner pieces being near solid. What was the average print time for these pieces for you?
I have ordered most of the electrics and have a fair amount left over from older projects.
Out of curiosity, what were your plans for this machine? Anything in particular you were going to fabricate?
DeanSeptember 28, 2015 at 6:53 pm #3275
The corners where 70% fill, not solid. They took about 3hours 20 minutes each. the lock same fill, I printed all in one print took about 2 hours.
But the Axis mounts are 90% fill and one just took about 5hours and 20minutes. But it is solid and heavy, but seems to be very strong, so that is very good.
My plans are CNC work on wood. I enjoy wooden projects and I love robotics, so this project falls right inline with my likes.
Greg.September 28, 2015 at 8:32 pm #3279
Any reason you are going so high on the density? The corners really don’t need much. I have it all laid out here. https://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/September 28, 2015 at 9:29 pm #3281
Sorry I meant to say 50% on the corners.
I have yet to hack my Devinci 1.0a 3D Printer as yet. not even sure if I will!
So I use the default slicer called XYZware. Now during the slicing you only have the following 3D Densities available.
Hollow 0%, Low 5, 10 and 15%, Medium 20, 25 and 30%, high 50% and solid at 90%.
As per your link the block is 40% and the lock is 70% so I used the best and closest for me, being 50% on both of these parts.
From here on though if you have suggested 70% I will be printing at 90%, as this will be the closest, unless I see reason, due to design stress points to print lower at 50%.
So far I’m happy with my prints though and they cleaned up very nice, with a perfect fit. I know this because I picked up my 25.0mm SS tube today!
Greg.September 29, 2015 at 6:52 pm #3292
How do you find the DaVinci machine? I currently have a Solidoodle 2 and it runs great but I saw those machine in Harvey Norman and wondered how they went?
Vicious1, during your testing of the machine, have you had any parts fail?September 29, 2015 at 7:21 pm #3294
For the price it is a great 3D Printer. The ABS print are very clean and accurate.
On the weekend I had a very small pit in the glass bed, not thinking to much about it
I keep printing over it. Two prints later a 20 x 10mm slither of glass was pulled out of the middle of the bed.
I rand the supplier, Mwave, they in turn contacted their supplier and now they have a new Glass bed plus heater ready for pickup. all covered under warranty.
I have read the Glass that comes standard with this printer is cheaper, expected, so the replacement glass apparently is Borosilicate so the thermal co-effiency should be better, as this was the problem with the cheap glass. Also I use Glue stick to hold down my jobs to the glass, works well but I have seen where people are starting to use Hair Spray for this.
Apart form the above I have had no other issues, touch wood!
Greg.September 29, 2015 at 7:42 pm #3295
It does look like a well built machine. Glad to see the customer service is there with the product.
I am an avid user of hairspray for my prints, works extremely well for print adhesion.
Do you use Kaptin tape on the print bed as well?
DeanSeptember 29, 2015 at 8:05 pm #3296
No, I have never used the tape on the glass bed, only the glue stick.
The biggest thing that I have learnt, is to wait until the glass bed is cold to touch
and your print comes off as if it was never stuck. Try to get your job off while the glass
is still even just warm, almost impossible.
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