Putting it all together questions

New Home Forum Mostly Printed 3D Printer -MP3DP Advice – MP3DP Putting it all together questions

This topic contains 36 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Jakob A Jakob A 1 week ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 37 total)
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  • #35463
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    I’m about to start my build and was just test fitting my printed parts with the new hardware I just received from the store. I have a couple questions that might be obvious once I actually start putting it together but I thought I would ask just in case:

    1. How do I secure the smooth rods onto the XZ_END & XZ_Motor part? During test fitting the rod are snug but not snug enough for them to not move.
    2. How do I secure the MK_MOUNT_3 part onto the X part?

    Thanks
    R.

    #35464
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    the motor side is stopped by the motor screws, the other side gets snugged up by the bearing screw, or a drop of superglue your choice.

    The mount should clip on so damn tight it can’t move.

    #35472
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I added some thin double sided scotch tape to the 2).

    #35495
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The mount 3 Shouldn’t need tape, but it won’t hurt anything either. The mount 2 would relax over a few months, so far so good with #3. Kinda cool now I have a good thickness gauge for structural stuff in Printed parts because of it.

    #35498
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Oh, maybe I have mount 2… Will mount 4 have a spot for the autolevel sensor? 🙂

    #35499
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    There isn’t room after I stick the parts polisher on there.

    #35500
    Profile photo of Mmmfishtacos
    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Am i missing something? Mount 2 and 3?

    #35502
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nah your good, mount 3 is the right one.

    #35527
    Profile photo of Bill
    Bill
    Participant

    I use a single layer of blue tape to snug up the snap fit of the mount. Without it I see drift on the X axis. No idea what version number though.

    #36022
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    So, I’ve completed all the milling for the MP3DP. I’m using 1/4″ MDF (couldn’t find 3/8″). I also milled a 1/2″ MDF base(Jeffeb3’s design…thanks for fixing the dxf on TV Jeff).
    I’ve cut two sets of the XY_Frame, one set in 1/4″ and the other in 1/2″. I’m thinking of trying another approach for stiffening up the XY frame. I have some 3/4″ 90 degree aluminum angle material, and I was going use it to secure the XY plates to the base. I’m wondering if this will also help stiffening up the front and back plates and prevent any bowing. I know I would need to cut the aluminum to fit around the Y stepper and belt printed parts, but I think it will make it stronger.
    Any thoughts on whether this would work instead of using the 1/2″ XY_Frame plates, or am I out to lunch?

    Thanks
    R.

    #36025
    Profile photo of Mmmfishtacos
    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Use the 1/2 inch. You shouldn’t habe your belt so tight that you bend it. If youre still worried then you could run screws from the base into the 1/2.

    #36028
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The belts should be looser than that, Like I said I am using 1/4″ and it barely shows any bowing after many months of continuous 24/7 use.

    #36035
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    It’s easy to forget nothing is permanent. You can print really well as it was designed, and then improve it based on your results.

    You don’t really need 3/4″ right angle, just a small piece of plastic to dampen the vibration.

    If you put a little right-angled piece of plastic and screwed it into the XY frame and the base, then it would stiffen it right up. Here’s a pic of what I’m talking about, replace that little square with a piece of plastic (it could even be the “Brace.STL” from the MP3DP). Do the same on the back. (((BTW, I think Ryan suggested this first when I showed him the base)))

    IMG_20170615_102846

    Another thing I was thinking about if you want that extra few mm in the Y direction, you could move the XY Frame to the outside, instead of the inside of the corners. It wouldn’t look as good, but it would give you a tad more stretch.

    So in this pic, Just leave everything else where it is, and move the board to the left side.

    IMG_20170615_102830

    And thanks for trying my base. AFAIK, no one else has done it. I keep meaning to build a box underneath it for my CPU and RAMPS, but everything is fine just floating around, and I’m otherwise still pretty busy.

    #36441
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    Do I use the 6-32 .75 screws to attach the lead screw nut to the printed parts?

    #36443
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    M3x10 same as the steppers screws.

    #36700
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    Hi

    I purchased a SPST illuminated rocker switch and a 3 wire ac chassis receptacle for the psu. The receptacle wiring is pretty straight forward, but Im not sure about the switch. It has 4 prongs. Two larger ones labeled 1&2, and their other two labeled 3 with + & – (pic attached). Does anyone know what the wiring should look like? The switch is rated 6A-125VAC, 3A-250VAC.

    image

    Attachments:
    #36705
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The two small ones are probably for an LED, is it a lit switch?

    The big ones are where you would connect you load wire, Generally the Black, but a double pole is a bit more safe.

    #36721
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    Yes it has a LED. So I should not use thus switch?

    #36728
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It’s fine. You don’t have to use the light, but if you do it probably only takes a 5V or maybe a 12V power source.

    #37032
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    Quick question regarding the driver for the extruder. I already have one installed with the current already set for the extruder stepper motor on my ramps board that is connected to my MPCNC. Is there any reason why I could not swap that one and install it on my new ramps for my MP3DP? Im using a Titan aero with a stepper that has the following specs and based on the calculation found on the Ramps Stack page on this site the current for the driver should be 0.63V.

    Property Value
    Manufacturer Motech
    Model No. 1701HSM140
    Holding Torque 14.7 N-cm
    Resistance/Phase 1.9
    Inductance/Phase 2.0
    Stepping Angle 0.9°
    Rated Current 1.4A
    Size

    #37044
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Swapping is fine, they can even be different types/brands. Just make sure the jumpers are correct and the firmware has the right steps.

    #37243
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    I’m about to connect the z axis to the ramps. There are 2 connections on the ramps Z axis. Do I just connect both steppers to that or do I have to splice the two steppers and connect using only one of the connectors on the ramps board? Im also looking at this (http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/6/6d/Rampswire14.svg) connection diagram and there looks like there’s some sorta board between the steppers and the ramps that merges the two into one…..do I need to do this?

    #37244
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I do it this way.

    Wiring the Steppers

    #37281
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    Sorry still not sure which is the best approach for the z-axis on the MP3DP. When I look at the link you provided their Are 3 options.

    1) order the harness. Not ideal for me….I can make my own and avoid the delay for shipping. Is the harness parallel or series?

    2) Series. So this means that I do not have to change anything for amps draw on the ramps? Is this the best way to go?

    3) Parralell. Do I need to increase the driver voltage in this case?

    I’ve also found links on the web where the 2 Z axis are connected to the Ramps directly on the  Z driver. Is this no longer valid or safe for this application?

    thanks

    R

     

    #37283
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The CNC needs a lot more torque. Just wire them in parallel.

    W.r.t. the driver setting. If you have two motors in parallel, then the current is split between them, so to get the same limit, you would need to double it. However, I wouldn’t mess with it, because it’s probably plenty and then you would accidentally swap out with the Y and send 2x current to the Y motor.

     

     

     

     

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #37284
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Sorry my bad, for the printer yes, just plug them both into the board (=parallel). Sorry I was thinking LowRider…

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #37302
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    Hi. I have a question regarding the End stop connection on ramps board I bought here.  The end stops have 2 wires and the board has 3 pins.  I tried googling it and I’m finding different results. Some connect to the two outer pins and some connect to the top and middle pins. Also does polarity matter?

    thanks

    r.

     

     

    Attachments:
    #37305
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Non-powered endstops go to S and -. The polarity on the endstop does not matter but it is labeled. The firmware is programmed to use “NO” Normally open and ground or common.

    I have said it in many places, endstops are not recommended.

    #37364
    Profile photo of Ralph
    Ralph
    Participant

    Hi, sorry should have mentioned that this is for the MP3DP.

    #37365
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant
    Hi, sorry should have mentioned that this is for the MP3DP.

    🙂 Got him again.

    Endstops are only recommended for printers if you plan on printing with them.

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