- June 8, 2017 at 5:32 pm #35463
I’m about to start my build and was just test fitting my printed parts with the new hardware I just received from the store. I have a couple questions that might be obvious once I actually start putting it together but I thought I would ask just in case:
- How do I secure the smooth rods onto the XZ_END & XZ_Motor part? During test fitting the rod are snug but not snug enough for them to not move.
- How do I secure the MK_MOUNT_3 part onto the X part?
R.June 8, 2017 at 5:52 pm #35464
the motor side is stopped by the motor screws, the other side gets snugged up by the bearing screw, or a drop of superglue your choice.
The mount should clip on so damn tight it can’t move.June 8, 2017 at 8:03 pm #35472
I added some thin double sided scotch tape to the 2).June 9, 2017 at 7:28 am #35495
The mount 3 Shouldn’t need tape, but it won’t hurt anything either. The mount 2 would relax over a few months, so far so good with #3. Kinda cool now I have a good thickness gauge for structural stuff in Printed parts because of it.June 9, 2017 at 8:17 am #35498
Oh, maybe I have mount 2… Will mount 4 have a spot for the autolevel sensor? 🙂June 9, 2017 at 8:28 am #35499
There isn’t room after I stick the parts polisher on there.June 9, 2017 at 8:47 am #35500
Am i missing something? Mount 2 and 3?June 9, 2017 at 8:53 am #35502
Nah your good, mount 3 is the right one.June 9, 2017 at 2:46 pm #35527
I use a single layer of blue tape to snug up the snap fit of the mount. Without it I see drift on the X axis. No idea what version number though.June 15, 2017 at 7:44 am #36022
So, I’ve completed all the milling for the MP3DP. I’m using 1/4″ MDF (couldn’t find 3/8″). I also milled a 1/2″ MDF base(Jeffeb3’s design…thanks for fixing the dxf on TV Jeff).
I’ve cut two sets of the XY_Frame, one set in 1/4″ and the other in 1/2″. I’m thinking of trying another approach for stiffening up the XY frame. I have some 3/4″ 90 degree aluminum angle material, and I was going use it to secure the XY plates to the base. I’m wondering if this will also help stiffening up the front and back plates and prevent any bowing. I know I would need to cut the aluminum to fit around the Y stepper and belt printed parts, but I think it will make it stronger.
Any thoughts on whether this would work instead of using the 1/2″ XY_Frame plates, or am I out to lunch?
R.June 15, 2017 at 8:21 am #36025
Use the 1/2 inch. You shouldn’t habe your belt so tight that you bend it. If youre still worried then you could run screws from the base into the 1/2.June 15, 2017 at 8:29 am #36028
The belts should be looser than that, Like I said I am using 1/4″ and it barely shows any bowing after many months of continuous 24/7 use.June 15, 2017 at 8:38 am #36035
It’s easy to forget nothing is permanent. You can print really well as it was designed, and then improve it based on your results.
You don’t really need 3/4″ right angle, just a small piece of plastic to dampen the vibration.
If you put a little right-angled piece of plastic and screwed it into the XY frame and the base, then it would stiffen it right up. Here’s a pic of what I’m talking about, replace that little square with a piece of plastic (it could even be the “Brace.STL” from the MP3DP). Do the same on the back. (((BTW, I think Ryan suggested this first when I showed him the base)))
Another thing I was thinking about if you want that extra few mm in the Y direction, you could move the XY Frame to the outside, instead of the inside of the corners. It wouldn’t look as good, but it would give you a tad more stretch.
So in this pic, Just leave everything else where it is, and move the board to the left side.
And thanks for trying my base. AFAIK, no one else has done it. I keep meaning to build a box underneath it for my CPU and RAMPS, but everything is fine just floating around, and I’m otherwise still pretty busy.
Attachments:June 21, 2017 at 5:01 am #36441
Do I use the 6-32 .75 screws to attach the lead screw nut to the printed parts?June 21, 2017 at 6:58 am #36443
M3x10 same as the steppers screws.June 25, 2017 at 1:05 pm #36700
I purchased a SPST illuminated rocker switch and a 3 wire ac chassis receptacle for the psu. The receptacle wiring is pretty straight forward, but Im not sure about the switch. It has 4 prongs. Two larger ones labeled 1&2, and their other two labeled 3 with + & – (pic attached). Does anyone know what the wiring should look like? The switch is rated 6A-125VAC, 3A-250VAC.
Attachments:June 25, 2017 at 1:37 pm #36705
The two small ones are probably for an LED, is it a lit switch?
The big ones are where you would connect you load wire, Generally the Black, but a double pole is a bit more safe.June 25, 2017 at 7:17 pm #36721
Yes it has a LED. So I should not use thus switch?June 25, 2017 at 9:05 pm #36728
It’s fine. You don’t have to use the light, but if you do it probably only takes a 5V or maybe a 12V power source.June 29, 2017 at 4:44 am #37032
Quick question regarding the driver for the extruder. I already have one installed with the current already set for the extruder stepper motor on my ramps board that is connected to my MPCNC. Is there any reason why I could not swap that one and install it on my new ramps for my MP3DP? Im using a Titan aero with a stepper that has the following specs and based on the calculation found on the Ramps Stack page on this site the current for the driver should be 0.63V.
Model No. 1701HSM140
Holding Torque 14.7 N-cm
Stepping Angle 0.9°
Rated Current 1.4A
SizeJune 29, 2017 at 7:36 am #37044
Swapping is fine, they can even be different types/brands. Just make sure the jumpers are correct and the firmware has the right steps.July 1, 2017 at 1:41 pm #37243
I’m about to connect the z axis to the ramps. There are 2 connections on the ramps Z axis. Do I just connect both steppers to that or do I have to splice the two steppers and connect using only one of the connectors on the ramps board? Im also looking at this (http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/6/6d/Rampswire14.svg) connection diagram and there looks like there’s some sorta board between the steppers and the ramps that merges the two into one…..do I need to do this?July 1, 2017 at 1:43 pm #37244July 1, 2017 at 6:27 pm #37281
Sorry still not sure which is the best approach for the z-axis on the MP3DP. When I look at the link you provided their Are 3 options.
1) order the harness. Not ideal for me….I can make my own and avoid the delay for shipping. Is the harness parallel or series?
2) Series. So this means that I do not have to change anything for amps draw on the ramps? Is this the best way to go?
3) Parralell. Do I need to increase the driver voltage in this case?
I’ve also found links on the web where the 2 Z axis are connected to the Ramps directly on the Z driver. Is this no longer valid or safe for this application?
RJuly 1, 2017 at 7:23 pm #37283
The CNC needs a lot more torque. Just wire them in parallel.
W.r.t. the driver setting. If you have two motors in parallel, then the current is split between them, so to get the same limit, you would need to double it. However, I wouldn’t mess with it, because it’s probably plenty and then you would accidentally swap out with the Y and send 2x current to the Y motor.July 1, 2017 at 7:25 pm #37284
Sorry my bad, for the printer yes, just plug them both into the board (=parallel). Sorry I was thinking LowRider…
1 user thanked author for this post.July 2, 2017 at 9:39 am #37302
Hi. I have a question regarding the End stop connection on ramps board I bought here. The end stops have 2 wires and the board has 3 pins. I tried googling it and I’m finding different results. Some connect to the two outer pins and some connect to the top and middle pins. Also does polarity matter?
Attachments:July 2, 2017 at 10:02 am #37305
Non-powered endstops go to S and -. The polarity on the endstop does not matter but it is labeled. The firmware is programmed to use “NO” Normally open and ground or common.
I have said it in many places, endstops are not recommended.July 3, 2017 at 5:34 am #37364
Hi, sorry should have mentioned that this is for the MP3DP.July 3, 2017 at 5:54 am #37365Hi, sorry should have mentioned that this is for the MP3DP.
🙂 Got him again.
Endstops are only recommended for printers if you plan on printing with them.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.