Simple build in Australia

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC Simple build in Australia

This topic contains 9 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Jeffeb3 Jeffeb3 1 week, 1 day ago.

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  • #35995
    Profile photo of cehbab
    cehbab
    Participant

    Hiya’s.

    4′ x 3′ x 4″, stainless 25.4mm tubing.
    4″ x 4″ table base for a little extra work room.

    X and Y Motors wired in Series.
    Makita trimmer router knock-off (Zen)
    Printed in PETG Natural.

    Made a table clamp…

    Still need to make an electronics cover.
    Will add spoilboard clamps when t-nuts arrive.

    Cheers

    Thanks Ryan.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #36013
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Cool. I want to know more about that table clamp. That looks like it would be very useful.

    #36016
    Profile photo of Ryan
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nice build!

    I would make sure the lcd cable is not touching the heatsinks and make sure they have plenty of room to breath, they get hot!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #36085
    Profile photo of cehbab
    cehbab
    Participant

    Hiya Jeff.

    I’ve tried to be clear in these photos.

    I started with a 1200×1200 25mm tube square frame I welded.
    Added a cross beam in the same square tubing at 900mm,
    to support under the legs of the machine.

    Next I added two 40mm angles for the outside, and a shorter angle for the inside.
    This way the clamp clamps against the two angle iron pieces, not the baseboard or spoilboard.

    The two outside are welded to the tube frame, and the inside one floats on 1/2′ threaded rod.

    The nuts are welded onto the inside floating angle, and two nuts not welded too lock at each end, and some more to hang out to hold some turning knob, I need to print some thumbwheel knobs instead.

    The part that slides sits on some overhang from the base board, and is screwed down above that middle angle bracket with welded nuts, the spacer to the angle iron, and the spoilboard screws into the baseboard spacer strip. The spacer is the width of the bracket to pad out height of missing base board.

    I also added two little blocks on the top/outside to hold down the spoilboard as it slides out.

    To replace the spoilboard I have to cut it at 500mm into two pieces, and screw it down, cuts holes for clamps…

    I have my own need for this which is why I did it, and it means clamping will have to be different in this area if I do it it at all, just holes in the spoilboard here with bolts and washers, no t-nut or anything to grab onto, as its hollow underneath in that area where the top moves.

    And I should NEVER have put the threaded rods directly UNDER the spoilboard as it gets harder to turn them the more it opens.

    Hope that is clear somewhat 🙂

    Cheers

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by Profile photo of cehbab cehbab.
    • This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by Profile photo of cehbab cehbab.
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #36103
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That is very clear. Thank you.

    In hindsight, it’s very clear that you should have put the rods out the other side, so the knobs wouldn’t be under the spoil board.

    For the knobs, you can also cut them out on the CNC. I like the idea of the machine helping itself, and I like wooden knobs. I’ve been meaning to make some replacements for the knobs on my table saw.

    When you are cutting something flat, on the top, does the moveable spoil board flex up and down? You might be able to install some screws to hold it down in that position if it does.

    Very good design, thanks for sharing. I have never welded anything (and my wife doesn’t yet see the value in me investing in metalworking equipment). So I am envious.

    #36105

    That’s a neat idea!

    I think you might want to use some kind of chain or pulley to link both rods, otherwise it must be very time consuming to get it to the right position.

    #36121
    Profile photo of cehbab
    cehbab
    Participant

    It has not flexed so far.

    I also mainly use the non clamping area, or the whole width when I’m routing, and haven’t had much need for the clamp yet, that project is to come 🙂

    It is screwed above the floating metal beam, and I have added those tabs on the outside to hold the outside edge corners as well, so its fixed vertically at each of the corners.

    I’ve had no issues so far.

    Cheers

    #36126
    Profile photo of cehbab
    cehbab
    Participant

    To Dui, ni shuo de dui,

    Yes it is slow to open and close, but I have time and am mostly patient. as this hobby goes, most time is spent in the preparation.. 🙂

    A chain or pulley maybe you could use, I cannot even think about the pressure to clamp using a system like that, this is simple, doesn’t make my brain hurt, albeit slow too setup, clamping pressure is direct from the two knobs.

    You also cannot clamp non rectangular shapes, as the spoil board cannot twist more than about 2mm, but that was my design requirement.

    It was mainly for joins on the end of boards, and also for being able to decorate boxes on any side up to its side being no more than 500mm x 300mm.

    Those are my limitations.

    I’d also like to try carving on the side of larger logs, so I had to choose between a higher z axis, or a clamp, and the higher z axis means less accuracy.. I’ll try that out when I can.

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by Profile photo of cehbab cehbab.
    #36169
    Profile photo of David Walling
    David Walling
    Participant
    That is very clear. Thank you.

    In hindsight, it’s very clear that you should have put the rods out the other side, so the knobs wouldn’t be under the spoil board.

    For the knobs, you can also cut them out on the CNC. I like the idea of the machine helping itself, and I like wooden knobs. I’ve been meaning to make some replacements for the knobs on my table saw.

    When you are cutting something flat, on the top, does the moveable spoil board flex up and down? You might be able to install some screws to hold it down in that position if it does.

    Very good design, thanks for sharing. I have never welded anything (and my wife doesn’t yet see the value in me investing in metalworking equipment). So I am envious.

    At this point in your life, you should be well aware that it’s easier to ask for forgiveness than ask for permission 🙂

    #36176
    Profile photo of Jeffeb3
    Jeffeb3
    Participant
    At this point in your life, you should be well aware that it’s easier to ask for forgiveness than ask for permission

    I’m still working off the debt from the last time I tried that.

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