Run through on how I tune up the import extruder

This has to be the best extruder I have every used, the only down side is it is not an all metal hot end and has a PTFE liner. This means  the high temp exotics are out. I mainly use PLA, or PET and this should handle PET, I will update this when I test it. These take 12V 3A to heat up and after that about 1A continuous.


When they arrive from over seas they aren’t set up very well so I tear it down and start fresh. If you buy it from here I have done this for you, here.  If your heater is not centered in your heat block loosen the set screw and center it. This should make initial heating faster and print temps more stable all while using less power. While your at it position the wires to bend them in the right direction. You only want to bend these once, anymore and they won’t last long.


I also like to use some thermal paste on the thermistor, completely optional. It is just floating in a threaded hole. I feel that improving the contact between the thermistor and the block should lead to more accurate and stable temperatures as well.

Double check to make sure the nozzle is clear and don’t get the insulation in there when re-assembling it.


The alignment bearing usually doesn’t turn. sometimes you can just flip the bearing as some seem to be offset, if not I use some loctite on the screw and don’t install it all the way. I back off the screw about 1/4 turn. Without loctite the screw will likely come out during a print.

You can also see how I fit the throat back in. I thread it all the way in until it almost touches the bearing. I position it so the wires line up with this side for later fastening.

Position the metal funnel end closest to the rollers, the PTFE open side should be closest to the nozzle. – sometimes this is upside down when new.


Tape off the bottom of the fins (the air coming out was leading to parts curling).

Then zip tie the wires to the top of the fan bracket. You want to keep these secure they are pretty fragile.


The only other physical thing to do would be extend the wires as necessary, making sure to use thick enough wire for the heater core, and the shorter the better for this.


Plug it in

More detail here.

You will need power to both sides of the green plug, you can just add a short jumper wire from one side to the other. The polarity is marked on the board, double check to make sure this is correct. The fan on the heat sink needs to always run, this gets plugged directly into the green power plug, polarity matters. Extruder to port D8, polarity does not matter. Optional print fan plugs in to port D9 polarity matters.


Marlin edits

Very few edits required. Any firmware I release after this post will most likely already be set for this extruder by default. I will put the info here for you adventurous types.

Pre-set Firmware

All of these that I have gotten have used the marlin #11 thermistor, and at 32nd stepping I use 200 steps for the e value.

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 11


#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {200,200,4535.44,200} 

Even after running the PID auto tune I get a huge overshoot in temp so limiting the max current might help with this, I will update it when I get a chance to test it.

// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current
#define PID_MAX BANG_MAX // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP


Slicer edits

cgcodeDelete the beginning gcode, you don’t want it to home.

Change the end gcode to look like this

G1 E-5 ;retract
G1 Z5 ;lift up 5mm
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
M84 ; disable motors

Not using endstops


Position you parts on the lower corner (0,0,0), before you slice them. This will start your prints where ever your head is. So position the nozzle touching the bed and exactly where you want it to start. When the print begins it should lift up the correct amount and print. You can manually adjust the height during the skirt print to fine tune it.

That’s it print away. The printed parts I am shipping are starting to get printed on this cnc, and they look amazing.


Recommended beginning slic3r settings.



Test file just in case.

test IE part